Unfinished Business, Sossusvlei, Namibia

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The un-exciting Hoba Meteorite

When we left Sossusvlei the first time, I felt like something was missing.  Something more had to be done at the dunes that we didn't have time for on our Acacia trip.  That something was climbing THE biggest dune in the world, named Big Daddy.  At 390m high, it is a formidable mass of orange/red sand.
We took Peekay on a final voyage to Sossusvlei via Grootfontein and then the Waterberg Plateau.  We left Tsumeb on our way to Grootfontein, first in search of a television to watch the England/France rugby world cup quarterfinal match.  A real waste of time based on England's efforts in the game.  But, as we were in the neighbourhood, we thought we would stop by the largest meteorite in the world, still out in a farmer's field about 25km from Grootfontein.  The Hoba meteorite weighs about 54,000 kg, and we thought we were in for something special, or at least informational.  After paying an entry fee, all we found was a large chunk of space debris composed of iron, nickel and cobalt in the middle of a little amphitheatre.  No information boards, no explanations, and NO crater!!  This chunk must have hit with an almighty force, but how is there no crater????   Anyway, the whole trip was kind of a waste of time and money really, so Peekay hit the road again to Waterberg. 
Waterberg is a large sandstone rock protusion, towering 150m above the plain.  The plateau is 50km long and 16km wide, and the top is pretty much a sheer cliff face surrounding the entire plateau.  It is impressive to look at, but quite difficult and expensive to get on top of.  Given our late arrival due to bad English rugby and space debris, we decided to just view the plateau from afar, then retire to a cool, well landscaped campground called Weaver Rock.  We made ourselves a great braai (BBQ on wood and coals) dinner, and actually had a nice grass patch with table and chairs to enjoy our meal at.  We usually just have a dusty old plot of ground, with nowhere to sit even, so this was a treat!

Michelle descending to Deadvlei

The next morning was the long haul all the way to Solitaire - the smallest town in Namibia.  We camped in a cheap place with a POOL, and a much needed swim.  Before the crack of dawn we set out for Sossusvlei, and entered the park at sunrise - already stinky hot!!!  This was just a sign of things to come.  At the end of the park, our only option to Deadvlei is a RETURN shuttle along the deep sand road.  Our driver was quite fun, going no handed and such. 
Chatting with the drivers, we found out the way to the biggest dune, which they call Big Daddy!!   All 390m loomed above us, but we started out across the salt pan, whilst watching a small group half way up.  They seemed to move quite fast, so we were encouraged at the time.  The sand was piping hot, and the best way to climb was in a pair of socks only (OK, we also wore a shirt and shorts). 

Deadvlei trees getting swallowed by sand

As with all, sand dunes, it's two steps forward and one step backwards as you sink in the sand.  We packed plenty of water (4 litres), and rehydration salts, along with some foods with salts!!!  It was tough going, and about half way up, Michelle was not in the best of ways.  It was time for her to head down, as it was getting increasingly obvious she would not make the top. 
As it was a challenge to myself, I pushed on after making sure Michelle got down safely.  And after almost 2 hours of climbing I reached the windy summit.  Nothing but sand all around, but impressed with myself for completing the goal.  Also a great view over Deadvlei and the 900 year old trees!!  On top of the highest dune in the world meant only one thing..... the longest run down a dune in the world!!!!  After taking in the views that I earned, it was time to head back - mainly due to water consumption. 

Self Portrait at the top of Big Daddy with Deadvlei behind

The downhill was fun, but exhausting!!  I tried to do some slalom turns, but got too tired, so had to stop once.  Across the pan at the bottom, it was a long, HOT slog.  I met up with Michelle and we enjoyed some rest time under a tree.  By that time, we were the only ones on the pan, which was fabulous having the place to ourselves.  But, on our return to the parking area, and after the scorching heat we discovered that there was no shuttle waiting for us to take us the 5km back.  We ran out of water waiting for the Land Rover, and were getting quite concerned as Michelle was feeling a bit of heat stroke.  When would they come and get us????
Luckily, for us, there was a couple that came to visit Deadvlei, and we managed to hitch a ride back with them after waiting for an hour.  They gave us some much needed water, and after returning to the main parking area, we had it out with the shuttle drivers, who were all just sitting there!!

Deadvlei Trees

It was extremely dangerous, leaving us out there, and they KNEW full well that we were still there, as our car was parked next to the shuttles.  It was a scary end to the climb, and we even went as far as complaining to the managers of the park.  This cannot happen to people when we were expecting a way back!!  Especially after paying the exorbitant fee for the shuttle in the first place!
Anyway, safe and sound, and refreshed with plenty of water and a swim in their pool.  After a quick trip to Sesriem Canyon, we drove Peekay halfway back to Windhoek, stopping for an amazing sunset, and then camping at a cool little spot called Capricorn Camp - we were the only ones there!!   *Stub