By Sea and By Air, Okavango Delta near Maun, Botswana

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The biggest inland delta in the world is in Botswana.  The Okavango Delta encompasses approx. 16,000 sq km of wetland, lagoons, channels and islands.  The river basically doesn't drain into any sea, ocean or other river, but is swallowed by the Kalahari desert.  Of course, being a delta full of water, it attracts plenty of animals to the area when there isn't water in their usual areas.

Martin's Trim with car battery and fuel tank seat

It's a bit unfortunate that the Okavango has become quite a bit upmarket.  It cost us $120 US to just do a single overnight trip into the delta on a dugout canoe called a mokoro, and we slept in our own tents.  Where is all that money going to??  I am assuming a lot to park fees, but still very exorbitant.  In saying that, the trip into the delta was pretty cool, and it's a can't miss if you are in the area!!
We arrived in the town of Maun, and had a chance to get some supplies.  We passed a local little hut, and the guy asked if I wanted a haircut.  My hair was pretty long for me, and I was dying for a trim, so we bargained him down to 15 Pula ($2) from 20, and he hooked up his 12 volt car battery to the trimmers, gave me a piece of broken mirror to review, and sat me down on an old truck fuel tank to start the trim.  He was pretty

Mokoro Ride in the Delta

rushed, and not the best cut but probably because he was thinking about his next move….  which was to walk me over to another hut and show me the price list.  Then he said that what we had bargained for was a reduction from the 'real' price of 175 Pula ($22).  Being seasoned travellers, we were having none of this nonsense, and even though the argument continued for some time, they were getting no more than 15 Pula from us two!!!  A great 'welcome' to Maun!!!

But things got better, much, much better.  Our campsite had a nice pool and party bar, so was a good social night.  But in the morning, we set off on the mokoros, two to a boat.  Our mokoro poler was the lead poler, and therefore we were the first boat through the channels.  Very good in one way - you are the first to see animals, and get nice views without anyone ahead, but you also clean out all the cobwebs between the reeds for the next boats.  Michelle was not too fond of that!
The mokoro was very relaxing to say the least.  We just sat back in our comfy seats and enjoyed the numerous water lilies, and reed scenery.  Occasional little white frogs, but not too much wildlife.  I think I fell asleep for part of the 2 hour ride.

Mokoro Polers

Setting up camp in the bush was fine, and a good lunch, but then the heat came.  Not much you can do in the stifling heat, but polers Judge and ????  took us out into the delta for a swim.  They assured us there were no crocodiles in that particular area, but we were all a little nervous about it.  Nerves aside, it was REFRESHING, and quite funny playing about in the reeds and lilies.
That afternoon and in the morning, the polers took us out on a walk on one of the islands in the delta.  We immediately came across a herd of elephants, and it was a little strange to be walking around them - not too close though.  We didn't see too much wildlife on the island, but that was not for a lack of animals as we found out later.
A great dinner at the campfire, and the group of polers gave us a good local song and dance routine.  They are all very nice people, and have a good sense of humour.

Watch out for Crocs - swimming in the delta

It was a rude awakening in the morning for the walk, and then the mokoro back to town.
Michelle and I had decided to treat ourselves for my birthday, and with my parents and grandmothers present money, we did a 45 minute scenic flight over the delta.  Our friends Jenny and Sean had highly recommended this, so we took the plunge.  Seeing the delta from both the water and air were two totally different experiences.  The pilot flew at about 150m high for the entire 45 minute journey, and had some high g-force turns when he spotted some animals.
There were loads of animals out there.  Hundreds of elephants, swimming hippos, running giraffes, massive herds of African buffalo, and tons of other antelope. 

Giraffes from Above

And the delta scenery was very impressive - beautiful wetlands, lagoons and islands.  What an amazing flight.  A couple of the seven of us that flew were a little queasy after the flight, but we all wondered why no more people did the flight option.  It was a great birthday present.  Unfortunately, we heard that a small tourist plane crashed a couple of days later, killing 8 of the 12 passengers on board.  A little too close to home for our liking, but it could happen anywhere I guess!!   *Stub