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A White Wedding was in store within our newly adopted family from Christmas time. Charlie and Sally, the owners of Zulukhuni Lodge, had invited us to their wedding on the 9th of Jan. But firstly - we had to get there! After spending a relatively sleepless night waiting for the ferry at Wakwenda Retreat on the island of Chizumulu, we boarded the Ilala Ferry 8 hours behind schedule. It was a fun journey with the other travellers we had met that week on the islands, but they left us t Nkhata Bay and we continued onwards to Ruarwe.
By this time it was well after noon and according to Nick (the owner of Wakwenda who was also going to Charlie's and Sally's wedding), it was Beer o'clock. We had taken it on ourselves to 'look after' Nick since he had promised Charlie that
he wouldn't turn up drunk or hungover for his mate's wedding day. So starting after noon we thought would be safe. Between us we drank quite a number of beers as we hung out on the outside deck in third class. We also had fun with the locals as I had got a catchy Swahili (Tanzanian) song stuck in my head. "Sawaa Sawaa Sawaa Ley". By the time we had arrived, I had a number of them singing along to the song playing from one of their cell phones.
Although we'd been invited to the wedding, we hadn't been sure if we would make it, so it was a real surprise for Charlie and Sally when we came ashore at Zulunkhuni Lodge. It was also great to see Jill (Sally's mum) and to see the look on her face as we walked up into the bar. Nice to feel super welcome. We also recognised a number of faces from partying at New Year in Nkhata Bay so we knew it was going to be a fun wedding!
Remembering our Christmas here, it was definitely going to be a different feel this time. Instead of the six people that we had at Christmas, there were more like 40 now, plus all the staff. So the day of the wedding was organised chaos at the lodge with breakfast and drinks all round. The staff had never seen the place so busy!
Seeing as the village of Ruarwe was organising the wedding - complete with organising committee!, we knew it was going to be an unusual and special African experience. A 10 minute ride by wooden shuttle boat took us all to the beach - the heart of the village - where the reception from the couple of hundred people or so, was colouful (everyone was in their best clothes), and noisy, waving branches and singing their hearts out in greeting. Thankfully the seasonal morning rain had given way to sunshine and everyone was in good spirits.
The Mzungu guests (white people) got stuck into the dancing with the locals before the
hullabaloo of Charlie's arrival. Charlie has been in Malawi for 15 years and was pretty much adopted by Ruarwe's Chief Jeramani and given the land to build Zulunkhuni River Lodge to bring tourism to the village. It was pretty obvious that the villagers are very fond of Charlie. Shortly after, Sally was greeted in the same way with much singing and dancing and celebration.
The wedding committee did a great job organizing the ceremony which filled with speeches from the local chiefs and headmen (of all the villages encompassed in Ruarwe's area), lots of dancing and
singing, and throwing of 20 kwacha (10cent) notes around. The MC would translate the speeches and vows, and because there was much activity and noise, it was all carried out using a mega phone!
Unconventional, but entertaining! It was a very happy occasion with a guesstimate of about 400 locals in attendance
After the main proceedings, dinner was served, first to the Mzungu guests and then to all the villagers. As is local tradition, Charlie had bought a cow for the dinner celebrations which feeds not only his personal guests, but is expected to feed the whole village (which was several hundred strong). The committee had cooked up a massive cow stew - literally. It seemed they left nothing out as, unfortunately, I was served a plate of offal with stomach lining and various tubes and bits sticking out. I couldn't look at it let alone eat it! So
I felt really ungrateful for not being able to stomach it - this is Africa after all, and people are hungry. Thankfully, with prompting from a local guest savvy to western tastes, my plate was discreetly replaced with something a little more edible. What a relief! And it was tasty!
More dancing and then it was time to head back to the lodge. The send-off was just as memorable as the arrival that morning. The party continued back at the lodge - drinking and more dancing till the wee hours. The whole day was fantastic and we felt very honoured to be there, and we will definitely cherish the experience. I'm sure it is something that we will never experience again. * Mush
Things Michelle will remember:
1. Dancing with Chief Jeramani who is 88 years old.
2. Watching in the audience sitting with the local children and them wanting to sit close to me, while others were scared and didn't want to sit close at all!
3. The other chiefs and headmen all wearing their best suits and ties for this very special occasion.
4. Families who were clearly in their best clothes all posing for photos on the beach taking family photos.
5. The generator going all the time in the background to support the sound system that would boom out music spontaneously for dancing and singing in-between speeches and serious stuff.
5. The unforgettable plate of 'beef' stew.
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| Michelle Dancing with 88 Year Old Chief Jeramani |
By this time it was well after noon and according to Nick (the owner of Wakwenda who was also going to Charlie's and Sally's wedding), it was Beer o'clock. We had taken it on ourselves to 'look after' Nick since he had promised Charlie that
 |
| Here Comes the Bride - A Welcoming Party |
Although we'd been invited to the wedding, we hadn't been sure if we would make it, so it was a real surprise for Charlie and Sally when we came ashore at Zulunkhuni Lodge. It was also great to see Jill (Sally's mum) and to see the look on her face as we walked up into the bar. Nice to feel super welcome. We also recognised a number of faces from partying at New Year in Nkhata Bay so we knew it was going to be a fun wedding!
 |
| The Wedding Locale on Ruarwe Beach |
Seeing as the village of Ruarwe was organising the wedding - complete with organising committee!, we knew it was going to be an unusual and special African experience. A 10 minute ride by wooden shuttle boat took us all to the beach - the heart of the village - where the reception from the couple of hundred people or so, was colouful (everyone was in their best clothes), and noisy, waving branches and singing their hearts out in greeting. Thankfully the seasonal morning rain had given way to sunshine and everyone was in good spirits.
 |
| Michelle with other wedding onlookers |
hullabaloo of Charlie's arrival. Charlie has been in Malawi for 15 years and was pretty much adopted by Ruarwe's Chief Jeramani and given the land to build Zulunkhuni River Lodge to bring tourism to the village. It was pretty obvious that the villagers are very fond of Charlie. Shortly after, Sally was greeted in the same way with much singing and dancing and celebration.
The wedding committee did a great job organizing the ceremony which filled with speeches from the local chiefs and headmen (of all the villages encompassed in Ruarwe's area), lots of dancing and
singing, and throwing of 20 kwacha (10cent) notes around. The MC would translate the speeches and vows, and because there was much activity and noise, it was all carried out using a mega phone!
 |
| The Local Chiefs Attending the Wedding - All in Their Best Suits |
After the main proceedings, dinner was served, first to the Mzungu guests and then to all the villagers. As is local tradition, Charlie had bought a cow for the dinner celebrations which feeds not only his personal guests, but is expected to feed the whole village (which was several hundred strong). The committee had cooked up a massive cow stew - literally. It seemed they left nothing out as, unfortunately, I was served a plate of offal with stomach lining and various tubes and bits sticking out. I couldn't look at it let alone eat it! So
I felt really ungrateful for not being able to stomach it - this is Africa after all, and people are hungry. Thankfully, with prompting from a local guest savvy to western tastes, my plate was discreetly replaced with something a little more edible. What a relief! And it was tasty!
 |
| A first dance of sorts from Charlie and Sally |
Things Michelle will remember:
1. Dancing with Chief Jeramani who is 88 years old.
2. Watching in the audience sitting with the local children and them wanting to sit close to me, while others were scared and didn't want to sit close at all!
3. The other chiefs and headmen all wearing their best suits and ties for this very special occasion.
4. Families who were clearly in their best clothes all posing for photos on the beach taking family photos.
5. The generator going all the time in the background to support the sound system that would boom out music spontaneously for dancing and singing in-between speeches and serious stuff.
5. The unforgettable plate of 'beef' stew.
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