Sunday, March 18, 2012

Purely Zanzibari Fauna, Foods and Music in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania

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Kirk's Red Colobus Monkey
The time came to leave Jambiani, but it was not out of choice, it was out of necessity.  We had no CASH left, and there was no bank in the village. We would have to head back to Stone Town for a bank, so figured we would continue on our merry way.  On our way back we stopped at Jozani Forest famous for its Red Colobus Monkeys indigenous only to Zanzibar. As we got off the uncomfortable, ridiculously designed wooden Dalla dalla (you have to stoop right over when you're inside), we headed AWAY from the park on a recommendation.  Sure enough, we would find the monkeys in the trees on a little dirt road. 

The Red Colobus monkeys are an interesting breed with a nice colour of rusty red on their back, and a funky spiky haircut.  They didn't seem too bothered by us and the other tourists around; they would just laze around in the branches only inches above our heads, feet and tails dangling below.  It was extremely hot so we knew how they felt just wanting to chill and do nothing in the shade!  A couple of playful little babies came along and were jumping around the branches.  Cute and curious, one hopped on the head of another mzungu (tourist), and sat looking at itself in her mirrored sunglasses sitting on her head.  It was probably the first time ever seeing itself.

Baby Red Colobus Monkey
We skipped the park entry fee as we didn't have time to explore the park.  There was a sign stating that "Photos don't help us survive, please donate if taking photos".  Now we generally don't have any problem with supporting wildlife, or parks, (thought that's another discussion) but in this instance, we were sure that the money we would 'donate' would just line somebody's pocket.  So, we skipped it. When we were on Kili, we learned that our park fees go to help all of Tanzania's National Parks. We had paid SOOOOO much money in park fees this far, that we felt we had contributed enough!!

Another dalla-dalla back to town, and nice to have the feeling of familiarity and knowing where to go, stay, eat etc.  We visited our local places including Lukmaan's Zanzibari Cuisine, Green Garden
Sugar Cane Juice in the Forodhani Market
Pizzeria (for wifi), Manch Lodge, and went back to our Zanzibari Pizza man (Ahmed), and freshly squeezed ginger sugar cane juice man (Asis) in the Forodhani Market  - both of them recognizing us and happy to have us back!!
We felt comfortable in the streets now, and would just wander to find different routes home around the maze of alleys. 
One thing that a lot of people do here is a Spice Tour.  Zanzibar was an important location on the Trading Route in ancient times between Arabia and India, especially for it's spices.  We decided on doing a tour and shopped around quickly for a tour. It was not the best tour we'd been on though as the guiding left a lot to be desired as he wasn't super forthcoming with info, but it was interesting to see herbs that we use everyday actually as a real plant and to taste them fresh, rather than dried and from a jar! Even though we had done plenty of beach time already, we did appreciated finishing the tour on a nice beach for a
Men Hanging out at Jaw's Corner in the alleys of Stone Town
much needed swim.

The main reason we stuck around in Stone Town for one more night was that we had been invited again to dinner with Khadija, Nafisa, and would finally meet David, Nafisa's husband (and friend, Sara's, dad).  Khadija's cooking is fantastic, so the offer was just too tempting. Dinner definitely didn't disappoint: the whole grilled fish with amazing coconut sauce, calamari, and various local-style breads were absolutely delicious! Like some of the best food we'd had on the island!  Khadija is one heck of a chef, and Nafisa and David, great company. It was a pleasant evening, hanging out swapping stories and experiences of Africa.

Drink and Taraab Music at Mercury's
Apart from spices, Zanzibar is also famous for it's Taraab music - a fusion between Indian, African and Arabic, faintly reminiscent of music we'd heard in Morocco.  We had heard the restaurant Mercury's (named after Zanzibar's favourite son Freddie) had taraab music one night on the waterfront. Apparently, the words are quite comedic, sarcastic and even a little raunchy (!), but alas, lost on us.

We really enjoyed our stay on the island of Zanzibar.  It is refreshing to see so many cultures living together in harmony, tolerant of different religions and tribes and beliefs.  You would see a Mosque right next door to the Catholic Cathedral or a Hindu Temple.  Many people intertwined, as tight as the network of alleys that connect them together. With the beaches, the beautiful water, it's a feel-good place. * Mush and Stub *
Khadija, Nafisa and David with the Delicious Meal

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