Beautiful Likoma and Chizumulu Islands in Lake Malawi, Malawi

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Flipping Kids on Likoma

We feel like we are becoming ferry regulars now, as this is the third, but not last journey on the infamous Ilala. We know the captain - Tom, Barman - Danson, and waiter - Francis. All very helpful people for us. The ferry left Nkhata Bay a few hours late, and therefor, we would be arriving at Likoma Island very early in the morning. There are two islands called Likoma and Chizumulu, that are Malawian, but in Mozambiquan waters of Lake Malawi, only 7km off the shore. We were due to spend 5 nights on these islands, as that is the next time the ferry would pass on it's way back North.

Robine and Sophie with Fingerloads of kids

We had some company in brother/sister Will and Sophie, and we all set up our tents on the top deck. Lucky, as there was some rain overnight. We arrived in Likoma even later than expected, as there was a delay at Chizumulu, so it worked out for us because it was now approx. 8AM and we could head over to the backpacker's place called Mango Drift on the other side of the island. It was a hot, sticky hour walk over the hills, lugging our big packs on our back, but also very scenic with loads of huge baobab trees around, and views across the water to Mozambique.

Mango Drift was located right on a nice beach, and we set up tent about 10m from the lake. Sporadic electrical power here, but no worries…. the name of the game here was relaxing.

Mango Drift also served up some delicious food, and had a big family dinner every night. For dinners we were joined by Dutch couple Jos and Robine, and Canadian mother and 12 year old son, Elizabeth and Max, who were all staying at the b/p.

Cathedral on Likoma Island



When we dragged ourselves away from swimming, paddle surfing, or just playing games, we did a big long walk around the island. First, summiting the highest point of the island at 605m, only about a 200m climb though. Then down through some of the villages, meeting plenty of friendly locals along the way. At one beach, the kids were showing off by doing flips off the beach into the water. In the same village, we started gathering a huge horde of kids, and we felt like the Pied Piper. At times, I would turn around and start chasing them like a monster, and that got a lot of laughs as they ran away, then snuck up behind me again. Both Sophie and Robine had a kid on every finger as we left town, all singing and skipping or jumping along. Such a pleasure to see the happy, smiling faces.

We thought the kids were going to follow us all around the island, but we had to send them home as to not alarm their families. By this time we had crossed all the way to the main village on the other side of the 8km by 3km island. It was time for lunch, and what better place than the aptly named Hunger Clinic. Good portions of local dishes, stationed right on the beach.

Sophie at Sunset with the Kids of Likoma



As our walk continued, we came across the cathedral. It's quite a surprise to see a cathedral of this size on such a small island, and other than the tin rood, it was an impressive structure. I forgot to mention earlier that we also had a chaperone in the form of Basil the Dog. He had faithfully followed us everywhere on the island, and now the cathedral was going to be no different. He trotted inside ahead of us, and we were a bit embarrassed by this. The caretaker seemed fine, as he said the dog could enter, and Basil continued on the tour of the cathedral, even climbing the balcony stairs for a bird's eye view of the pews.



The last stop on our day walk, was a locally famous 'Medicine Man'. He was an elderly gentleman, with dreadlocks and a loud, red outfit of shirt and shorts which bore a cross on them. After our offering of a branch, he invited us inside and put on a bit of a talk about how he became a healer. In his story, he explained that at one point in his life, he definitely had some mental problems and lived in the jungle with no clothes. He started to find herbs and plants that would heal, and then eventually returned to "civilization" where he cured his grandmother with some herbal remedies. From then on, word spread and people started coming from far and wide to find him. An interesting character to say the least.



Martin after Soccer with kids on Likoma

Unfortunately, we experienced quite a bit of rain on the island, so much so, that we changed our plans for taking a local boat over to Chizumulu. We did, however, hire a private boat for 13 of us on the last day, to at least see Wakwenda Retreat on the Chizi. Will, Sophie and I (along with Basil), walked up to the next village to find a boat. We eventually found someone who would give us a good price, and went with him to get the fuel. I managed to play football/soccer with the local kids while waiting for the fuel, and also had a young 2 year old on my lap for a while looking very stunned at my white hands and skin.



We hadn't realized it, but we had to walk to the opposite side of the island to get the boat, but that gave us an unexpected boat tour around the island. We just arrived much later at Mango Drift than expected. It was a quick trip over to Chizi, and we arrived to a startled Nick, who owned the lodge. When you are on a tiny island, and all of a sudden 13 people show up unannounced, probable expecting dinner, that puts you in a tough position. He came through with flying colours though, and we had a tasty chili con carne.



Wakwenda Retreat on Chizumulu Island

Nick was also in a bit of a tough spot, as earlier that morning, a dog that he was looking after actually got eaten by a crocodile. He had no means to tell the owner, and felt awful about the whole incident. This happened in an area where people often swim, so it was lucky that it wasn't worse, but there was now a big 3m croc around, and the police were there trying to shoot it since it will continue to be a problem.



Nick's place was an impressive spot with a bar built around a rocky outcrop. He had built different decks jutting out from various locations and it was fabulous. We wished we had come sooner. And, Nick was quite the host too… He seems to love having people around, and even when the heavy rains came later, we all ended up hanging out in Nick's house. The ferry was supposed to come at 8PM, but it didn't arrive until 7AM the next morning. Nick, generously let us sleep around the house, as no-one could unpack in case the boat arrived. Thanks Nick for being such a great host!! *Stub