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After a last meander through the Great Ruins in the serene morning mist, it was with a little trepidation that we set off onto our next destination, Chimanimani in the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe - only because we knew what lay ahead: at least a couple of miles of walking and about 5 or 10 combi-vans! We shouldn't have worried. Instead, once we made it to the main road, our second thumbs out for a ride brought success, and Allan, Patrick and Pindai who had been at a conference at the Ruins hotel, happily gave us a lift to Masvingo the nearest town. Easy peasy!
A quick stock up on supplies and Martin and I went in search of the bus station. A little frustration as we got passed from pillar to post, but we finally got on a big coach - which happened to be full with people standing in the aisles, but, no problem, Dis Is Africa, we could sit on the engine compartment at the front next to the driver. It was a trouble-free and fun journey chatting to the driver (Lovemore) and bus boy (Jonah) and with front-row seats for the scenery. Our final combi-van was cramped as usual, but as we climbed our way higher, the beautiful mountains were breathtaking and the cool mountain air streaming in, a refreshing change from the hot stickiness of earlier in the day.
In Chimanimani, we pitched our tent at a backpackers lodge that used to have a good reputation, however, we learned that it doesn't have a good reputation now! Especially at weekends when the locals come to the lodge bar, it apparently turns into a bit of a brothel! Nice. It was a Monday night and thankfully, was quiet, but the next morning we moved on to the "Frog and Fern' and spent a relaxing time just chilling in its welcoming, tranquil setting. Unfortunately, Chimanimani - like the rest of Zim so it seems - is a little expensive especially if we wanted to get to the Chimanimani Park itself - $40 for a taxi for approx 16km to the entrance. Not good for our budget. We settled for some closer hiking which turned out to be scenic though still not really worth the entrance fee of $10 US each. It was a pretty picturesque waterfall called Bridal Veil (very common name), but the 4km walk there wasn't really very scenic. Then we tackled Pork Pie Mountain, but the trail wound all the way around it, rather than the more direct route up, creating a long walking day in the HEAT!! The views from the top, towards Chimamimani Park were nice, but there was no shade up top at all!!
Back in town, we stopped for an ice cold Coke at our favourite little place called Msasa Cafe (probably the only cafe in town). We returned often for a Coke, or a delicious meat pie (very home made by Daphne and the most delicious in weeks), or a local meal of sadza and chicken. Sadza is basically a stodgy maize meal, thicker than mashed potato, and a little bland. You have to flavour it up with some kind of sauce!! But filling for sure...... and cheap.
Back at Frog and Fern, we chatted with the owners Dee and Jane. They had lived in Zim for some time and lived through the lean recent years. Telling us how far things had come since the 'bad times' when there was no food in any of the shops, and no fuel at the gas stations. Everything was bought and sold on the black market and street, but at hefty prices.
This was only a few years ago. So, the sight of tourists coming back into town, for them, was a welcome sight. It's hard to imagine what it was like just a few years ago. But Zimbabwe will be on the mend for some time to come, but prices will have to come down to attract more tourists!!!!
We went to bed every night with our watch dog Holly, outside the door of our tent. She just liked to be around us, and take care of us!! She was a good friend! But, time to move on to Harare and visit with friends we met in Plettenberg Bay. *Stub
Things Michelle will remember:
1.The crammed combi-van with Martin holding a large flat box of about 50 one-day old chicks for a family. He called himself a 'chick-magnet'.
2. The four dogs, four cats at the Frog and Fern, but especially Holly.
3. The delicious meat pies at Msasa Cafe - we took extras for lunches
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| Local kids heading to school in the tractor trailer |
A quick stock up on supplies and Martin and I went in search of the bus station. A little frustration as we got passed from pillar to post, but we finally got on a big coach - which happened to be full with people standing in the aisles, but, no problem, Dis Is Africa, we could sit on the engine compartment at the front next to the driver. It was a trouble-free and fun journey chatting to the driver (Lovemore) and bus boy (Jonah) and with front-row seats for the scenery. Our final combi-van was cramped as usual, but as we climbed our way higher, the beautiful mountains were breathtaking and the cool mountain air streaming in, a refreshing change from the hot stickiness of earlier in the day.
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| Bridal Veil Falls |
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| Msasa Cafe |
Back at Frog and Fern, we chatted with the owners Dee and Jane. They had lived in Zim for some time and lived through the lean recent years. Telling us how far things had come since the 'bad times' when there was no food in any of the shops, and no fuel at the gas stations. Everything was bought and sold on the black market and street, but at hefty prices.
 |
| Our tent site at Frog and Fern, with Holly the dog |
We went to bed every night with our watch dog Holly, outside the door of our tent. She just liked to be around us, and take care of us!! She was a good friend! But, time to move on to Harare and visit with friends we met in Plettenberg Bay. *Stub
Things Michelle will remember:
1.The crammed combi-van with Martin holding a large flat box of about 50 one-day old chicks for a family. He called himself a 'chick-magnet'.
2. The four dogs, four cats at the Frog and Fern, but especially Holly.
3. The delicious meat pies at Msasa Cafe - we took extras for lunches
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