Monday, August 29, 2011

Ubuntu in Plettenberg Bay, South Africa


Back in Quissico, Mozambique, we met a family from Jeffrey's Bay. We decided to surprise them with a quick visit on our way through town, and surprise them we did. Tyrone and Kerry were excited to see us, and offered for us to stay, but we had made plans for Plettenberg Bay. It was great sitting out on their fantastic deck on the top floor of their place, overlooking the surfing waves below - home to what Tyrone described as the best right hand wave in the world. Tyrone, and his son Teagan are hard core surfers, and what better place to live than on top of the waves at Jeffrey's Bay.
The House on the Left is where we stayed
From J-Bay, our map showed a road heading down to the Bloukrans Pass, avoiding the main highway, and also the toll road. Of course, we like to stay off the main roads, and also like avoiding tolls, so we were a little confused when the exit signs showed our next destination crossed out. We stopped a passing car, and as our luck would have it, he turned out to be the forest ranger of the area. He informed us that the road is technically closed, because of a previous flood and some rockfall, but as far as he was concerned, it was very passable, and as tourists, we would love the more interesting drive. He even drove the 10 km down the road to make sure we could pass the road-block - how nice is that!! So around the road block we went, and found a very scenic 'free' drive down to the river and back up the other side. This little inside knowledge would save us some cash a few times over.
Amazing Sunset from Mary's House
There is a word here in South Africa - Ubuntu - that means kindness to others, hospitality, generosity. And we've sure been getting our fair share of good fortune and exceptional kindness (ubuntu) from the locals, but how about this one. Through Tina and Allan, we met a couple of guys (David and Colin) from Zimbabwe. They mentioned that their mother, Mary, lives in Plettenberg Bay, and that we should go and stay with her. So, our connection to Plett, was the mother of friends of friends (got it??). She was happy to oblige though, and threw out the invitation. Little did we know what a beautiful place we were heading to. It was absolute luxury, overhanging the cliffs and above the beach at Keurbooms, with an infinity pool out above the rocks. The house was stunning, designed by Mary, it was three floors of rooms, all with beautiful large windows and views out to the ocean. We couldn't believe our good fortune, as upon arrival, we saw some whales from our own room!!!! Throughout our stay there, it was a daily occurrence to see whales feeding, and dolphins surfing and playing in the waves.
Mary's brother and sister-in-law (Mike and Fiona) were also visiting from Zimbabwe, and also Mary's son Mark with his girlfriend Emma from England. No worries though, the place is plenty big enough for the whole crowd!! When we arrived, Mary took us all out to dinner, and I had a delicious combo plate of steak, ostrich steak, and kudu steak - all cooked to perfection. Michelle stuck with just a large ostrich steak, and they were so tender, they melted in your mouth!!
Robberg Nature and Marine Reserve is a rugged peninsula of cliffs jutting out into the ocean south of Plettenberg Bay. Mark and Emma were interested in walking the trail around Robberg, an 11km trail on the rocky peninsula, and we gladly joined them for the walk. A relatively tough trail, rocky with many ups and downs along the steep walls. Great views over the bay and mountains, not to mention some wildlife. We could see a large group of seals playing and swimming in the green waters below. It turned out that we didn't have time to complete the whole trail as we were meeting the rest of the family for a braai back at the picnic area, so cut across on the surprising sand dunes in the middle. Apparently, all the sand for Plettenberg Bay blows up the one side of the peninsula and into the bay over the other side. I love to run down the steep dunes, so i was in my playground once again, running all the way to the ocean. It was a very scenic trail, and we are glad we did the trail before the braai. Not only did we have a nice meal to come back to with Mary, Mike, Fiona and Mary's friend Gail, but I don't think I would even be able to walk after the 'meat feast' we were supplied with upon our arrival!! Delicious, and with quite a view!!! 
Whales and dolphins from our room

The rest of the time in Plett, we tended to just enjoy our location above the rocks, and our new found 'family'. It seemed there was an endless Scrabble competition going on, along with a few other games and some delicious food and drink. Along with some walks down the beach. What a fabulous time we had in Plettenberg Bay and it was a really tough decision to leave - as it was, we stayed one additional day than planned. More famous South African ubuntu - Thanks so much Mary, you are a star and we thoroughly enjoyed meeting you!! *Stub


 

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