Sunday, September 04, 2011

Only One Way to Go From Here, Cape Agulhas, South Africa

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NORTH, as Cape Agulhas is the southernmost point in South Africa, and therefore Africa in general. 
Leaving Oudtshoorn after our ostrich experiences, I must say that it was a very scenic drive.  Through rolling hills and fields, all the while with the mountains to one side.  Lunch was in a scenic road stop above Barrydale, and we took a quick tour of Swelledam, with all it's exquisite historic buildings, most in the Cape Dutch style.  Swellendam dates back to 1776 and is situated right below the picturesque 1600m Langeberg Range.  The stunning  Dutch Reformed Church, smack in the centre of town, is apparently the third most photographed sight in the Southern Hemisphere, if you ask the locals.  Can't imagine what the other two that beat it are, but I'm not sure about that claim!!
Dropping down off the plateau, we found ourselves back by the ocean and eventually at Cape Agulhas.  Not a lot here, but in addition to being the southernmost point, it is also the meeting of the two oceans, Atlantic and Indian.  The seas are rough and I can imagine the storms this place has seen.
As you might imagine, there is a lighthouse here and it dates back to 1848.  The design is based on the lighthouse in Alexandria, Egypt and we know this because in the morning, there was a crew of three brand-spanking new vehicles, fully equipped and heading overland to Egypt, in particular, Alexandria.  A largish crowd had gathered, and we joked that "they didn't have to all come out to see US off, but was nice of them".  We also thought about asking the participants for a lift to Egypt, but I think it was far too luxurious for us!!
The night before, we had taken our photos down at the south point, and in front of the lighthouse, then drove to the hill overlooking town for views at sunset.  On the way back to town, we found a little fish and chip shop to return to, and were both very excited and salivating over the prospect of eating out, and fish and chips at that.  We set up our tent quickly in the very blustery conditions, and wandered back, only to find that the fish and chip shop closed 10 minutes before we got there.  We were 'gutted' and couldn't believe our misfortune.  Who would have thought a restaurant would close at 7PM!!  However, we did find a good substitute, having a bar meal of calamari, and drinking beers with a few locals!!
From Agulhas, it was a one day drive to Cape Town, which was an exciting prospect!  We were really glad we chose the coast route, as it was exceptionally scenic.  We watched the great white shark diving boats go out from Gansbaii.  It was too expensive for our budget, but we were not really sure on the ethical nature of the cage dives, considering they attract the sharks with food, and that means that sharks now relate humans to food.  Not great for the surfing community.
We really liked Hermanus although it was very touristy, especially on a Sunday.  There is a great cliff walk, and we spotted whales from shore.  Also, in town we came across a bunch of vintage vehicles that  were just completing a safari rally from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Cape Town.  These cars must be worth a pretty penny, but they still get driven in some harsh terrain!!
The rest of the coast was cruised slowly, with many stops for whales and beaches.  Betty's Bay in particular, was a great location, with the mountains rising quickly out of the sea, and looming over the white sand beaches.  And then, Table Mountain came into view across False Bay and we were almost there.  Another leg of our adventure complete, and where we would say goodbye to Figaro, our car.  An eye opening drive into Cape Town, through many of the shanty towns, and townships that we've all heard about.  But, once again we were in for some more good fortune, as we had arranged to stay with a couple named Elmara and Lionel, whom we met in the Rocky Mountains of Canada, almost a year earlier at the beginning of our trip.  To say the location was spectacular, would be an understatement, as their place was located on the beach in Blouberg just north of Cape Town, and had views looking towards Table Mountain and downtown.  *Stub




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