Saturday, May 14, 2011

3 Days on the River Tsiribihina, Madagascar


Professor Martin at school near Antsirabe
Apparently, one of the classic trips in Madagascar is to float down the Tsiribihina River in a dugout canoe called a pirogue, with a couple of pirogeurs paddling you along.  Why be left out of the fun, so we signed up with the Australian's Clyde, Avril and Kerrie.  On the way to the river we were supposed to visit a couple of volcanic lakes, which were nice in their own respect, but the real highlight was when I asked our guide, Willy, to stop at the school that we passed.  The children were all lined up at the edge of the grounds and as we approached the school with our cameras, the kids went crazy, and the teachers seemed almost as excited to get some photos of themselves.  We were invited into the classrooms, and as soon as we showed them photos, the place erupted. 
Michelle with the kids at School
We thought we had really disrupted the lessons, but the teachers didn't seem to mind and kept on inviting us in to a new class room.  I went to the front of the class, and pretended to teach a lesson.  This had everyone a little confused, but they loved it.

The other Pirogue, with zebu on shore
Packing up the pirogues the next morning was quite an occasion - it seemed like the whole village came out to 'help' and see us off. Once on the river we left the mayhem behind and it was relaxing and peaceful. For the next two days we paddled down the river.  Our 'pirogeurs' Copan, Rene, and Mahatre (Tim) (we called him Tim because of the hockey jersey he sported - a Tim Horton's Timbits shirt - all Canadians will know what I'm talking about) were great - nothing was too much trouble and they were always laughing and giggling and having fun like little children. The food they cooked was absolutely delicious - some of the best we've had in Madagascar. As we discovered, always in Madagascar, meals consist of rice (Madagascans consume 125kg of rice/per head/year!). So we would have rice and fresh salad and either freshly caught fish, Zebu (their local beef) or even fresh chickens that say at the clucking away at the back of the pirosue that were slaughtered and plucked just before dinner.

Campsite for night #1 on the River
We floated alongside river banks and saw lots of birds and chameleons. The sun was scorching hot. At lunch times we would stop at a village or a waterfall. We were hoping for more activity on the water but right now it's cool season so there wasn't as much activity with people cooling off. Unfortunately, as with most of Madagascar, the rain forests here have all been cleared for agriculture and the terrain was grassy and bare. As a result the water is very brown and sandy from erosion. We camped every night on sand/mud bank of sorts for great sunsets and sunrises. To finish off the river trip, or more, to finish us off!, we took a very bumpy and tippy Zebu cart to the village where were staying at. Our 'hotel' was extremely authentic - limited electricity and pot showers. I don't think Kerrie was all that impressed. Martin and I on the other hand loved its authenticity and the local village.  *Mush/Stub


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