The Oasis of Tighmert, Morocco

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Maison D'Hotes Darnomades - Tighmert

After a brief research day in Marrakesh, and then a quick overnight in Agadir, we were on the road to Guelmim.  Paola, a girl who worked in the Tarifa hostel had recommended this place to us, and in particular, the oasis of Tighmert 15km East of town.  So, not sure where or what we were heading to, we arrived in Guelmim.  We contacted Brahim, from Maison D'Hote Nomades, who happily picked us up from the bus station since he was already in town shopping, and drove us to Tighmert, and his little maison.  i had an excited feeling after we approached the palm tree lined oasis area, after seeing scrubby, rough desert for so long. 

Salah, Michelle and Brahim at dar Nomades

Brahim's Maison was a little piece of paradise, and very cosy to chill out for a few days.  Dressed in beautiful blue jellabas, Brahim and his helper Salah were exceptionally hospitable and friendly.  We were greeted with tea, made and poured in the traditional method.  First couple of glasses are filled from high above, and poured back into the pot to cool the tea.  Then, after the glasses are full, a "saha" (cheers) is spoken and you drink.  I'm not really a tea drinker, but the stuff I've had in Morocco has been delicious.  We were also treated to some of the local dates, and nuts.  And introduced to Brahim's camel called Yacutah.  Apparently, Brahim's family has another 10 camels that he can use to acquire himself a wife.  He introduced us to the woman that he hopes will marry soon - in shellah.  I guess the transaction of camels has to be made first.

The Oasis of Tighmert is still inhabited by 650 families.  It is one of the only oasis' that has not been abandoned as the people leave to cities in search of prosperity.  This oasis actually has new schools and co-operatives set up to encourage people to stay, which is a formidable achievement.  Although, walking around, it really didn't seem like there was much going on, but everyone was quite relaxed and friendly.  A nice invitation in to a women's cooperative to view the weaving, but we were under no obligation to buy.  The ladies just watched, weaved and giggled.  We even got invited in to the house of Abdul Salam, for tea and offered food, and they didn't even want any money from us for anything!!

Kasbah in Tighmert

On arrival, we were basically told that Salah would take us to the local Kasbah, where we got a tour around from a man named Takki.  The Kasbah is basically a caravanserai, an ancient hotel of sorts on the camel trading trail through the Sahara.  It was actually really interesting with a huge collection of berber items used on camel treks, in the home, or for work.  Then we all enjoyed tea in the berber tent set up in the middle of the Kasbah before a casual stroll home. 

Back at Chez Brahim, we had some delicious meals.  In the south, it seems that they use more fruit in the tajines, and we enjoyed chicken with prune, and also a delicious camel meat with egg.  Yum!!!   After this, we relaxed in the berber tent on carpets, sheepskins and cushions at low tables, and were able to play some games and listen to music.  A very relaxed time indeed.  Did I mention that we had our cosiest room on our trip so far…..  a mud and straw walled building, with all the requirements we needed, and a nice temperature both day and night.

Eagerly awaiting the Camel meat tajine

One of the jobs we were getting desperate to do was laundry.  For some reason, we haven't found any place to do our own laundry in a machine, so we asked Brahim for a bucket and he pointed the way to the location where all the local ladies do their laundry, fed by an aqueduct from the spring.  We were part way through our laundry, before one of the local ladies arrived to clean some sheets.  It was obvious that we were doing something wrong, as she quickly called us over, grabbed our clothes and started 'showing' us how to do the laundry properly.  It was really great, as she basically did our whole pile of clothes for us, with a smile on her face.  She wasn't expecting money, just to help us.  All we could offer was some bites of orange for her and her boy, and an attempt to wring out the clothes.  After she was finished, she smiled, grabbed her bucket and sheets, filled up another bucket with water, balanced it on her head and was gone!!  Great experience, and so helpful!   *Stub