Saturday, February 04, 2006

The Slowboat Down The Mekong, Laos

Destination: People's Democratic Republic of Laos. For those of you whose geography is as bad as my sister's, no, we are not discovering a new country! Laos is east of Thailand with Vietnam to the west, China and Burma to the north and Cambodia to the south. A former French colony it gained independence in 1949.

Well, from Pai, it was a super-long tiring day by minibus ride to get to Chiang Khong - the jump off point to Huay Xai in Laos. Unfortunately, Martin was ill with tummy trouble so we decided to delay going across the border. When we did finally cross we had to pay a 2-day fine for over-staying our Thailand visa - no big deal though as it was the equivalent of $10 US. A short 10 minute boat trip across and we were there. After getting our visas checked and passports stamped, we haggled for a songthaew -truck-taxi-thing to get us to a different boat 'dock' - a mud bank - 2 miles up river. Our plan was to take the two-day 'slow boat' south along the Mekong River to Luang Prabang- the old capital of Laos. We had been recommended against taking the fast speed boat which although would take 6 hours instead of 16, was apparently mind numbingly loud. When they passed us on the river - they certainly were!

Our delightful boat was very cramped and really very uncomfortable with literally only 50 poorly-spaced teeny wooden benches, 2 people jammed in per bench, with a small area at the back for sitting/standing. Of course there were way too many people for the boat including locals sitting on huge bags of rice at the back next to the loud engine. About 120-150 people all packed in like sardines... for 2 days, 8 hours a day!! Fun! The first day we tried to squeeze our bums onto the wooden benches with our knees comfortably jammed into the bench in front. We ended up sitting on the guard rail hanging out of the side (there were no windows) to be more comfortable. Inspite of the conditions we still enjoyed watching the world of the Mekong go by. * Mush

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