tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-130421702024-03-07T15:57:46.047-08:00Living Free Range Travel(Formerly Mush and Stub's World Tour)
- Travel tips, advice and adventure stories from our World Travels since 2001. Over 65 countries and counting.
Click on the links at each entry to see more photos in Flickr. MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.comBlogger516125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-51705580480600829402016-12-15T13:38:00.000-08:002016-12-15T18:05:01.881-08:00Martin's 10 Useful Christmas Gifts/Stocking Stuffers for the Traveler<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Packing
Cubes (pack-it Cubes)</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Organize,
and fold clothes in separate coloured cubes which pack together conveniently
and are easy to identify when needed. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An
essential travel item for my trips whether short or long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The original ones were Eagle Creek, but now
there are many brands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://shop.eaglecreek.com/packing-cubes/l/212" target="_blank">Eagle Creek</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Multi-plug
with USB</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Pretty much
all of us travel with a phone, computer, or other devices that require charging
or power.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The travel adaptor plug is a
necessity, and a plug like this covers all continents and countries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most ideal is one with a USB plug-in like
this</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://go-travelproducts.com/us/electricals/adapters/worldwide-usb" target="_blank">Travel Adaptor Plug</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVYPOkqI2aoCUTFHWaXXJyRHxd7UvLRT1_6ZQ7DsYtFr2Mzz5qYbeLx_uV_RKq6a1y44szEsl0Ipf0D-eK0A_I4F0XXWG1Bcdp0uh02XmoESuLV9ybI-GioYA4FmyhEZtwTkE/s1600/PICT2149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVYPOkqI2aoCUTFHWaXXJyRHxd7UvLRT1_6ZQ7DsYtFr2Mzz5qYbeLx_uV_RKq6a1y44szEsl0Ipf0D-eK0A_I4F0XXWG1Bcdp0uh02XmoESuLV9ybI-GioYA4FmyhEZtwTkE/s320/PICT2149.JPG" width="240" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Sarong</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">A sarong has
so many uses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It can be used as a towel
for the beach, a sheet, a wet blanket to cool down on the hot nights, a skirt
for the ladies, a cover-up for changing, a headdress to protect from sand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very lightweight and versatile, it can cut
down on requiring too many other items.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Money Belt/Body
Wallet</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I find that
a money belt is a necessity for keeping passport/credit cards/cash safe while
traveling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the best I have found
is the Lifeventure Dristore Body wallet because it has a waterproof section.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="https://www.lifeventure.com/products/security/dristore-waist" target="_blank">Lifeventure Wallet</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Saxx Underwear</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Underwear
for him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most comfortable underwear
I have found for traveling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is quick
drying, so can hand wash easily, and has flaps to keep all the man bits in
place and as a bonus, they don’t ride up. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Comfort is very important.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="https://www.saxxunderwear.com/ca/shop/shape/boxer.html" target="_blank">Saxx Underwear</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Quick Dry Pack
Towel</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Regular towels
take up a huge amount of space in a backpack, and when they get wet, take a
long time to dry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A good option is a
thin, lighter weight towel that dries fast and packs very small.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t say it’s as soft and absorbent as a
regular towel, but a very good option based on size and weight. They come in
all different sizes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://www.cascadedesigns.com/packtowl/personal/product" target="_blank">Cascade Designs</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Dry Bag</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">A decent,
light-weight dry bag can protect your electronics or clothes from major
downpours in rainy season, gives security when traveling on boats, or protection
when taking part in other water activities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Give the traveler piece of mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This is a good brand, but there are many.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="https://www.outdoorresearch.com/en/ultralight-dry-sack-1l.html" target="_blank">Outdoor Research</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FDY8rtVeDHxASJWRjbW1zqOV-6_Fr2T-O8XSm6ZETJGeuG7jzBNwKpxxPKaCFeMNJRTyrXsy-98g9XBtoXFrTZNDrWWi4T0IFRKIgYYUhWYg36e2DTdBT6iaUjrUykBon_fE/s1600/pic2576399_md.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0FDY8rtVeDHxASJWRjbW1zqOV-6_Fr2T-O8XSm6ZETJGeuG7jzBNwKpxxPKaCFeMNJRTyrXsy-98g9XBtoXFrTZNDrWWi4T0IFRKIgYYUhWYg36e2DTdBT6iaUjrUykBon_fE/s320/pic2576399_md.jpeg" width="320" /></a><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">8.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">7 Wonders Duel
or Carcassonne Games</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The standard
game people take on travels is a deck of cards, but why not step it up a
notch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A great strategy game is this
amazing 2-player game called 7 Wonders Duel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It can be packed down to a small little bag, and can pass many hours
while waiting for buses or trains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://www.7wondersduel.com/7wonders-duel.php?lang=en" target="_blank">7 Wonders Duel</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Another
great option for a multi-player game is Carcassonne, which also packs quite
small. Can be played by 2 to 6 players.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://www.zmangames.com/carcassonne-universe.html" target="_blank">Carcassonne</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">9.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Lonely
Planet eBook</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">A travel
guide is important for any traveler, and having it at the touch of your
fingertips sure helps. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Buying a Lonely
Planet book online will make a great gift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While it recommends hotels and restaurants in many locations, I find it
ideal for things to see and do, but most important, provides maps of important
locations when the traveler arrives somewhere unknown.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><a href="http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/" target="_blank">Lonely Planet Guides</a></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">10.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Battery for Recharging</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Battery
packs are getting smaller and smaller, and more powerful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A cell phone should never run out of juice
with one of these.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They come in many
different sizes. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Usually a bigger one is
more powerful, but when traveling, weight and size is definitely something you
need to be aware of, so there is a balance of power vs. size/weight.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/best-portable-battery-chargers/" target="_blank">Best Portable Battery Chargers</a></span></div>
</div>
MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-6818746874634806142012-07-14T22:43:00.000-07:002012-09-18T09:52:35.925-07:00Mozambique Reunion, Chiswick, England<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630432461738/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos in England, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jennie, Jenny, Andy, Sean and Michelle on dessert</td></tr>
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We met the MegaBus just after midnight in downtown Brussels in the dark and rain. I think we both slept most of the way through Belgium and France, but our bus almost missed the booked ferry back to the UK. Greeted by the white cliffs of Dover, we promptly fell back to sleep for the final leg back in to London. It was quick Tube ride to Chiswick Park and we knocked on Jennie and Sean's door around 8AM. Jennie and Sean were the couple we met getting on a minibus in Swaziland bound for Maputo, Mozambique. It was a chance meeting, but we got along so well that we spent the better part of the next two weeks together before parting ways. We had been in touch for some time about getting together back in London, and all of us were excited to see the others.<br />
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It's always very interesting seeing people whom you've met in one traveling location and then seeing them in their normal lives. Lots had changed for them, as they've since been married, found a lovely home, and were now expecting their first child. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sean tasting some Belgian Trappistes</td></tr>
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Their hospitality was second to none, and since they really understood what it is like traveling, they knew what we needed in a home atmosphere. We had plenty to talk about, and really enjoyed a day catching up around the Chiswick area. Their generosity was spectacular and we hope to return the favour in Canada one day soon.<br />
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But, the Mozambique reunion was not complete. That night we were expecting a visit from Jenny and Andy. Another couple the four of us met on a minibus heading up to Vilanculos. Jenny and Andy were a real scream, and we were all anticipating a night full of belly laughs!! And so it was. A delicious lamb curry meal, with a selection of cakes. Complete with plenty of wine with dinner, and a Belgian beer tasting for dessert. I had brought a selection of my favourites back for everyone to try (not knowing that Jennie was pregnant - sorry).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biscuit, J-Lo and Martin at the pub</td></tr>
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What a fun night we all had. It's good to laugh so hard like that every so often, but I must say that the next day wasn't too pleasant for most (except maybe Jennie). It was a quick visit, but we hoped to see them all again during our time in England.<br />
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While in London, we also caught up with old friends Biscuit, and Bartlett (J-Lo). These guys had been working hard on various jobs to do with setting up the Olympics. The time was now coming close and we were happy they could spare a little time. Michelle's school friend Steve Downes also made a trip to Balham. All pub meetings over some beers as it goes, but really great to catch up. We even managed a curry with Steve which was oooohhhhh so good. These are all friends we knew we would see again on our planned visits to London, but there's never enough time as you would like! *Stub</div>
MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com04 Bollo Ln, Chiswick, London Borough of Ealing, W4, UK51.495518939368395 -0.2701950073242187551.4930474393684 -0.27513050732421873 51.497990439368394 -0.26525950732421877tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-35167833175101966952012-07-13T06:49:00.000-07:002012-09-18T05:59:47.263-07:00Brussels Sprout, Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle at the Shiny Atomium</td></tr>
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In true Thomas fashion, he rearranged his work slightly so that he would be able to drive us back to Brussels in the morning of our departure, allowing us the full day to tour around the city before our midnight bus back across the Channel. We will miss spending time with them!!<br />
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It was a rainy day, and he felt bad dropping us out in the rain, but we've lived through all kinds of inclement weather, that this storm didn't phase us. Our chosen drop-off point was at the Atomium, a very cool looking 102m high building that was built for the 1958 World Fair. It is built in the shape of a iron atom, but enlarged about 165 billion times, and looks very space age in it's surroundings. We were too early to get inside, so tackled our way into town after looking around the massive atom. I say tackled, because usually these things are easy in a modern town, but sometimes modern machines and computer ticket counters really fail you. We put our money in the machine, and it didn't spit out a ticket, even with the help of a tram driver. It had taken all of our change, and no one around to give us more change. Even though the driver had seen us failing at this approach, there was nothing he could do to help, so we were left pleading with another driver of the correct tram to help us out. We did eventually get in to town, and went to track <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guild Halls in the Grand Place</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flower stalls in the Grand Place</td></tr>
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down the office to get our money back, not out of need, but out of principle. What a farce!!<br />
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It didn't put a damper on Brussels though, and after dropping our luggage in a locker at the train station, we were ready to tackle 15 hours in Brussels.<br />
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As per our usual, we did our own walking tour of the old town. Some of the early highlights were the covered shopping streets and arcades, the busy restaurant street with plenty of tables out into the pedestrian area, and the Tintin mural (as the Tintin writer/artist Georges Remi, who wrote under the pen name of Hergé was Belgian). <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking from Manneken Pis</td></tr>
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Along our walk we rounded the corner in to the Grand Place, our jaws dropped to the floor. After seeing so many beautiful and stunning buildings all around Belgium, this square seemed to be even more spectacular, and on a grander scale. There was a flower market in the centre, which brought a lovely splash of colour to it all. There was the 96m tall Hotel de Ville (city hall), Maison du Roi (King's House) which now houses the museum, on either side, and all the guildhalls filling in the rest. Very impressive sight to say the least! We enjoyed just sitting in the square and watching the world go by!<br />
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But, our walking tour would continue, fueled by some more delicious Belgian Fries with mayonnaise - double fried of course. It was the tiny little statue called Manneken Pis at only 61cm tall, that drew the biggest crowd around it. This statue of a little boy urinating was created in 1618, and is the most famous in the country. It was funny watching the large crowds jockey for position to take a photo in front of him. Apparently, his costume is changed a few times a week, and he has a few hundred different <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scaffolded Palace of Justice - see the graffiti?</td></tr>
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outfits. Funny stuff, and of course, I had to get the obligatory picture under the 'pee'!<br />
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Up on a plateau above the old town sits the palace, book-ending the Brussels Park with the Parliament. A stately building for sure, but apparently not used by the Belgian royal family as a residence - just a spare home I guess. Walking along the Regentschapsstraat through the museum district, you have some great views over the old town. The Mont des Arts creates a perfect foreground for a photo of the old town. At the end of the street is the huge Palace of Justice. This massive place was almost completely covered in scaffolding on the front side right up to the dome. I don't know if I've ever seen a building completely covered in the ugly scaffold quite like this. One thing that stumped me though was above the scaffolding and high up on the dome. Somehow, someone had climbed up there and done some huge street art/graffiti on the beautiful dome. Shocking for sure, but how on earth did they get up there?? Take a look at the picture!!<br />
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The daylight was coming to an end, but our bus was not until midnight. We decided to plant our <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont des Arts in front of old town Brussels</td></tr>
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selves in the Grand Place and watch dusk approach and the lights come on around the square. We sat on the steps of the beautiful King's House (Maison du Roi), with some delicious Belgian Trappiste beers from the supermarket. Many others seemed to have the same idea, as there were groups of people having a few drinks all around the square, and some sitting in the middle. There was, however, enough space in the middle for some brave soul to get down on his knee and propose to his unsuspecting girlfriend. Of course, many people quickly noticed and cheered once he announced her positive answer! As they enjoyed an embrace in the square, a direct beam of sunlight shone right on them. Somebody was watching!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beers on the steps of Maison du Ro</td></tr>
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A nice way to finish our day, but what did we need to take back from our fabulous trip to Belgium...... well, chocolate and beer of course!!! But, thankfully, no sprouts from Brussels! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1361muH4XrTQUODoVPEdmMiRLlFR8t5gZqgeiQ-lNURQhAc1S2qYvLwDj7xvoiN2pKaduC2223Y6zUsr-15qbU_zar9izCJ462Ah8Wz9blmdYl-a0troBPkiF7vtgbeDYlfpE/s1600/DSC_4242.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1361muH4XrTQUODoVPEdmMiRLlFR8t5gZqgeiQ-lNURQhAc1S2qYvLwDj7xvoiN2pKaduC2223Y6zUsr-15qbU_zar9izCJ462Ah8Wz9blmdYl-a0troBPkiF7vtgbeDYlfpE/s320/DSC_4242.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grand Place at dusk</td></tr>
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MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com1City of Brussels, Belgium50.8503396 4.351710350.7701401 4.1937818 50.9305391 4.5096387999999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-50856049635052276142012-07-11T06:38:00.000-07:002012-08-18T09:01:57.150-07:00Belgium's Fourth City 'Ghent', A Hidden Gem<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main canal in Ghent towards Sint Micheilbrug</td></tr>
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Ghent seems to be the forgotten Belgian city, sandwiched between Brugges, Brussels and Antwerp, but I think it is a little hidden gem. We hopped on a train, and were planning a single day trip to Ghent, trying to hurriedly see all the sights. Looks like we picked one of the worst days possible to see the city, as they were setting up for the biggest festival of Belgium, to take place in the next week. So, we saw some fabulous architecture, and wonderful churches, but all blocked by scaffolding, stage construction, and big trucks unloading and the building blocks. But, we were able to see past the construction zone and visualize how beautiful the city would be on a normal day. And possibly how much fun it would be during the festival when hundreds of thousands of people descend upon the city for open air concerts. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Gravensteen Castle</td></tr>
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The city is based upon some canal networks that head out to sea. The Gravensteen, a 12th century medieval castle is right in the heart of town, standing dominantly! It has been restored and is an impressive sight. Among the beauty of the other ancient buildings in town, you can't help but notice that there are 4 massive church/cathedrals within a short two block section in the market area of town. It is a row of huge towers and striking religious structures. The amount of time and money that must have been spent to build this little stretch of religion would be astronomical.<br />
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St Baafskathedraal, the cathedral contains "The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb". Painted in 1432 is <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three of the Big Towers</td></tr>
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the most famous piece of Flemish art in Belgium and is on display in the cathedral (for an entrance fee). Too high of a price for me to see a single piece of art, no matter how famous.<br />
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The 14th century Belfort, one of the group of Belfries that are all Unesco World Heritage Sites, would offer a commanding view from the tower, but too high of a price once again.<br />
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St Niklaaskerk, and Sint Michielsplein, are just plain big churches, and surround a few of the market squares. All making for quite the view. Sint Michielspein is actually across the ancient bridge, and from the bridge you can see the waterfront views of Graslei and Korenlei, names for the waterfront on each side of the canal. These are some of the best buildings in town, but also where all the stages were being set up. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2KDCXev_sy9OB2UE0iTStlAyeVehlt-rEZfOLC7uKBqbAqq4kLvAr55j6gF7YDq721y4_6RkTkof3bR-9mClmldOj64v8MPQrbc97zWimLrtWNKjIKHFMuvluLunkHSLb4ZK/s1600/graslei.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2KDCXev_sy9OB2UE0iTStlAyeVehlt-rEZfOLC7uKBqbAqq4kLvAr55j6gF7YDq721y4_6RkTkof3bR-9mClmldOj64v8MPQrbc97zWimLrtWNKjIKHFMuvluLunkHSLb4ZK/s320/graslei.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Korenlei waterfront</td></tr>
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Our day consisted of plenty of walking, an unhealthy lunch of 'Oh so good' Beglian fries with mayonaisse, buying some lovely chocolates from the myriad of chocolate shops around town, and seeing a massive cannon. A strange site in town, but the cannon nicknamed Dulle Greit, was a 5m long gun, that was built to fire 250kg cannonballs. Luckily, this gun was never put to the test.<br />
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Ghent is a hidden gem indeed, and a must see on the tour of Belgium's Big Three Cities, which we figure should be The Big Four!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dulle Greit - 5m long cannon</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle at Korenmarkt</td></tr>
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MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com1Bij Sint-Jacobs 2, 9000 Gent, Belgium51.056502137419621 3.726425170898437551.036538137419619 3.6869431708984375 51.076466137419622 3.7659071708984375tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-51497180979759344042012-07-10T06:49:00.000-07:002012-08-14T23:32:00.076-07:00Amsterdam and Other Dams, Holland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630986359758/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Holland, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stiffler and Martin in Amsterdam</td></tr>
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Borrowing a car from Kim, we hit the road in search of Amsterdam. We have visited Amsterdam before, but on this return, we were strictly going to visit our friend Steef Fleur (or Stiffler), whom we met in Vietnam, then traveled with in China, Tibet and Hong Kong. Stiffler had spent some time in Brazil, but we were happy to find her home in Amsterdam. <br />
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We arrived in the afternoon, and basically just had enough time to walk through town, before meeting Stiffler. I do love Amsterdam...love the feel of it, love the look of it, and it's just nice walking through the city. It has a relaxed atmosphere, and doesn't feel like a big city.<br />
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It was great to meet up with Stiffler - it's been about 6 years since we saw her last. We caught up of course, and made a lovely dinner at her place, and met her boyfriend. A funny part of the night was when we couldn't find a pump for the air mattress, and each had to take turns blowing it up manually.<br />
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A nice breakfast, and that was it. A short visit, but well worth the drive. We decided to take a scenic route home, and after The Hague and Rotterdam, we turned towards the coastline, and followed the <br />
water down to Zealand. In this area, there are huge dam and dike structures to control against <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Protective Coastal Dams in Zealand</td></tr>
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flooding in the lowlands of the Netherlands (which is pretty much all of it!. They control the amount of water that is let in, and out of the delta. I think one of the dams was actually about 8km long, which you can drive across. There are also plenty of modern wind farms along the coast, along with a few remaining traditional style windmills.<br />
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Down on Zealand, there were a couple of very picturesque little towns. Middelburg and Vlissingen had a lot of character, with old style architecture built around clean canals. There were some large sailboats in Middelburg, parked outside people's houses. A nice lifestyle considering they are inland from the coast, but still have access to get their sailboats out on the ocean!! A great drive, but a quick trip to Holland. Back to Belgium!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailboats in the Canal in Middelburg</td></tr>
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MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Jeltje de Bosch Kemperpad 5, 1054 Amsterdam Oud-West, The Netherlands52.363650785820333 4.86831665039062552.344256285820336 4.8288346503906254 52.38304528582033 4.9077986503906246tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-25303843222617882032012-07-08T11:05:00.000-07:002012-08-14T23:36:25.667-07:00Parties and Ships, Antwerp, Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riya and Frans, at birthday party</td></tr>
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We hurried back from the Ardennes on the Saturday afternoon, as there was a big occasion to attend. Thomas' father, Frans, was turning 60, so there was a party for him that night. I helped Thomas with others to set up in the afternoon, but I had no idea what to expect for the evening.<br />
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Michelle and Kim dressed up in style and looked gorgeous. We arrived to find family and friends of about 60 or 70 strong gathering for champagne and hors d'oeuvres in the garden of Thomas' mother Riya's school. Live music and meeting the family, we were then whisked in for dinner. Now, we were expecting a smallish group party, maybe a BBQ or something, but what we got was a fabulous 3 course meal with amazing sea food, meats and delicious desserts. It was pretty much like a wedding feast, and it was wonderful. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas climbing down into the hold</td></tr>
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After dinner, there were some speeches, dancing to a live DJ, and plenty of wine and Belgian Beers. Michelle and Kim even took a turn bar-tending, and dancing a waltz in the kitchen. It was a fun night meeting a lot of the family, and we were so grateful to be included in the celebrations. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle and Thomas on Bright Ocean</td></tr>
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The following day, Thomas was excited because his brother-in-law Gunther, had finally invited him aboard a cargo ship for a tour. Turns out that Antwerp has one of the largest inland harbours in the world, and massive ships load and unload their cargo here daily. We boarded the steel ship Bright Ocean, and turns out to be a Burmese ship. The Burmese crew were ever so nice and friendly, which is true to form from our experience in Burma. We were able to climb into the hold, which was a rather scary 10m ladder down through a hole. It is a massive space down there, and can hold hundreds of tons of steel.<br />
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We were able to tour around the whole ship including down into the engine room, control room and bridge. The engine was massive and interesting, and the first officer actually gave us a good explanation of things on the bridge. Really interesting time on the boat, and possibly a chance we won't have again.<br />
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After a couple of nights of more fabulous dinners, we went to watch Thomas' band practice. Translated to English, the band's name is "Tight Pants", and they play just to have some fun with friends. Thomas plays lead guitar and we enjoyed watching the practice in their fancy practice room, while having a couple of drinks on the couches! A good second best to not actually being able to see a real gig with them!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas and the massive engine</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thomas at the engine room controls - Bright Ocean
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MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Muisbroeklaan 492, 2030 Antwerpen, Belgium51.284080796662373 4.349899291992187551.244344296662376 4.2709352919921875 51.323817296662369 4.4288632919921875tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-46470932234217464142012-07-06T11:17:00.000-07:002012-08-07T07:59:18.750-07:00Relaxing at the "Cabin", Baraque de Fraiture, Ardennes, Belgium and Luxembourg<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Pictures from Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630720082754/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Luxembourg, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kim and Thomas at the Stone Cabin in Baraque de Fraiture<br />
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Kim's parents own a beautiful, old stone house in the Ardennes, Southeastern Belgium. Thomas and Kim fancied a couple of days away at the 'cabin' on the weekend, so we packed some groceries, beer and wine, and cruised to Baraque de Fraiture, settling in nicely to the cosy cabin. It was a beautiful old stone house, and quite large for a 'cabin'.<br />
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The weather forecast was poor, with high chances of rain, but somehow, we missed it all. We were able to eat our breakfasts and dinners out in the garden with views over the largest of Belgium's hills (not really that big actually), and do some walking. The four of us went out for a few hours of fresh air and enjoyed some of the lovely countryside with fresh smelling wildflowers and horses with some pretty shaggy manes covering their eyes! We had views back over our little village, and also of the local ski hill, <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Thomas inside the cabin<br />
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which I must say wasn't that impressive - I think I learned on hills bigger in Canada!!<br />
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In the afternoon, we went on a a small road trip. As with everything in Belgium, it was only 30 minutes to the Luxembourg border and then on to the picturesque town of Clerveaux. Built on a bend in the river, the town is situated beautifully in the valley, with the castle and church holding a dominant position in the centre of town. For me, it was exciting to add another country to my 'visited' list. It was pleasant afternoon walking around, and even up to the huge monastery at the top of the valley. Luxembourg was how I pictured it…. rolling hills of green, animals, and interesting architecture. <br />
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We bought some delicious meats that night, and had a large BBQ. We also managed to try some <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Church at Clervaux<br />
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horse meat, that is quite common in Belgium, and pretty tasty to say the least! Fire, games and beers finished out a relaxing night.<br />
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In the morning, we were on our way back to Antwerp, but had to stop along the way at what is billed as the "smallest city in the world" - Durbuy, Belgium. Again, a fleeting visit, but what could you expect from a town so small!! I guess back in 1331, the village had all the makings of a city - a castle, a police station, and a courthouse, so it was granted the status. I don't think it's grown much since then, and probably never will because the locals want to stay the smallest!! Just a cluster of cobblestone streets and quaint houses, but tons of tourists and activities around. We saw plenty of people canoeing down the river, past the Tourelles castle. Most getting stuck on the rocks in front, and trying to figure out what to do next!! *Stub</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Fraiture 2, 6690 Vielsalm, Belgium50.252473734170451 5.74722290039062550.211836234170448 5.668258900390625 50.293111234170453 5.826186900390625tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-61315515653674619282012-07-05T23:35:00.000-07:002012-08-07T23:41:36.779-07:00In Brugges (not quite like the movie), Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Belfry</td></tr>
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A day in Brugges, and hopefully it doesn't turn out like the movie!!! We borrowed a car and drove down to the outskirts of Brugges, as with everything in Belgium, it was only an hour away. Finding free parking for the day, we walked into the old town area across the drawbridge, and through what seemed like old city wall battlements. Greeted by a row of old style windmills, mounted on the top of small hills. Walking up to the base of the windmills, you get a view over the old town, and a little taste of what our day will be like.<br />
The entire town of Brugge is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site, basically a living museum. From the small hills, we could see all the interesting towers, belfry, church spires, etc that are buried in the centre of the old city. The old town is really stunning, and we enjoyed walking <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view down to Markt, from the Belfry tower</td></tr>
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along the canals, and seeing the architecture. Lunch was a of the picnic variety, and we enjoyed on the edge of the canal.<br />
Making our way in to the main square - Markt square, we were disappointed as there was big market going on, and all kinds of trucks were parked in the square, with fast foods and such. You couldn't really get nice photos with all these ugly trucks around. Turns out, this market is only on once a week, and by the time I had waited in line, then climbed the 366 steps up the 83m tall Belfry tower, the trucks were pulling away, clearing out the Markt square. I'm pretty sure this tower is the one where (in the movie "In Brugge") the guy jumps out of the tower to warn his friend about the boss' arrival in Brugge. It's pretty high, so I could imagine this making quite an impact!! You get views 360deg <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stadhuis in the Berg</td></tr>
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around Brugge, seeing all the orange roofs, stepped gables, and canals around town. You can even see the modern style wind farms in the distance, compared with the old style windmills in town. Once again, I was a bit disappointed in Brugges. You climb all the way to the top of the wonderful tower, and all around the window area, they've installed a new, but tight meshed cable system for protection. I can understand that they need protection for people and objects, but having a nice big camera, I wasn't really able to take any decent photos without getting cable close up in my photos. People with small point and shoots were fine, as their camera lens would fit through the holes!! Also, just from a visual standpoint, you cannot really see the scenery clearly, as there is all this cable. There must be a better way!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painting Brugge</td></tr>
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But I digress...... Another beautiful square is the Berg. This is where Belgium's oldest Stadhuis (city hall) is located, and it is an immaculate, intricate building. It's been added on to many, many times, but is very impressive and takes a commanding stance in the square. We treated ourselves a little and took a boat trip around the canals!! Under the old bridges, behind the buildings, seeing little nooks and restaurants tucked along the canal, you really get a different perspective of the town. Then we walked to some of the more picturesque places along the route.<br />
We finished our day in Brugge in an absolute monsoon. The heavens opened as we hustled back to our free parking spot. We didn't make it, and followed the rivers of water, a bit soggy, to the car. After all these wonderful shops, we couldn't find one open to hide from the rain. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MMMmmmmm...... Chocoholic</td></tr>
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But, it's amazing really how many chocolate shops, and chocolatiers that are actually in Brugges. Pretty much every street had a chocolate shop, or multiple ones next to each other - how do you possibly choose. With pralines, marzipan, cuberdons, sweets, you name it, they had it! We especially liked the one called Chocoholic!! And next to those were Belgian waffle stands! It's a very gastronomic country - we have no idea how all the locals stay slim!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brugge streets from the Belfry tower</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle in the Markt square</td></tr>
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<br /></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Markt 17, 8000 Brugge, Belgium51.208765439409248 3.223671913146972751.206278439409246 3.2187364131469725 51.21125243940925 3.2286074131469729tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-16349131304563753852012-07-04T05:53:00.000-07:002012-08-04T11:17:22.073-07:00Throwing Hands and Tasting Beers in Antwerp, Belgium<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630590023518/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos in Belgium, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antwerp Train Station</td></tr>
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Now based in England, we had planned to do a few trips around Europe, hopefully meeting some old friends, and also catching up again with friends that we met in Africa. We had thrown around ideas of going to Frankfurt, Switzerland, Northern Ireland, Barcelona, Sweden, Munich, Belgium, Amsterdam, as we had met some great people who live in those locations. Well, we didn't have time for all of them which is a real shame.<br />
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In Namibia, when we boarded the second half of our overland truck trip from Cape Town to Livingstone, Zambia, we met a great Belgian couple named Thomas and Kim. We really got on well together, and enjoyed many good chats late into the evenings over some drinks. We had kept in touch, and made a plan to head to Antwerp, Belgium to stay with them. We couldn't believe our luck, finding that a cheapo bus company called <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner with Kim and Thomas in their garden</td></tr>
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Megabus actually now traveled all the way to Brussels, using the ferry. We got a good price for one way (25 pounds), but the return trip was only a staggering 4 UK pounds!! How can they possibly do that, as it includes the ferry. We jumped at the bus tickets, figuring that we had been on so many buses in Africa, how could this be any worse than that. And, our usual motto is "we have more time than money"!!! Well, the bus ride was seamless, pleasant and comfortable. We didn't have to share our seats with any others, there were no chickens or goats on the bus, and the bus was modern and new. And, most importantly, the driver drove safely and carefully!! Such a difference from our cramped, hair raising journeys in Africa!!!<br />
The boat ride was great too, as we left with a nice view of the white cliffs of Dover, and seagulls hovering, and stunt flying along beside us, hoping for some treats!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp9_DKpa76UQZZnEPRRT13fYEpdTJmJoywlzTQf3Qx_q5m8SzmSj99TsFhrCXYJrDPy0ZQSVC1nSLMQsYLovUUO8E60WmzkoJ0SqJ-BtYk5lkyDhQfcVWqYPF1Q1PA8xNE5e4puw/s1600/antwerp.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp9_DKpa76UQZZnEPRRT13fYEpdTJmJoywlzTQf3Qx_q5m8SzmSj99TsFhrCXYJrDPy0ZQSVC1nSLMQsYLovUUO8E60WmzkoJ0SqJ-BtYk5lkyDhQfcVWqYPF1Q1PA8xNE5e4puw/s320/antwerp.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle in Grote Markt, with Stadhuis and Throwing Hand Statue</td></tr>
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Arriving in to Brussels, it was actually an hour early, so it gave us a chance to look around briefly before meeting Thomas. He was stunned to see us sitting, waiting for his arrival at the planned meeting spot, even though he was early!!! And we drove back the 45 minutes to their home of Antwerp, where we met up with Kim and saw their beautiful home. They had been working on renovating this four storey house on their own and had done a spectacular job. Still more work to do, but what they had done so far was beautiful. We were so lucky to be welcome to such a place!!<br />
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Our first of many delicious meals with Kim and Thomas in their back garden, was enjoyed with some Belgian beers. Belgium is famous for it's Tripel and Trappiste style beers that are brewed by the monks. They are very strong beers 8, 9, even 11%, and oh soooooo tasty!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hmmmmm...... which Belgian beer to choose?</td></tr>
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The best way to get around Antwerp is by bike, and we were able to borrow a couple for touring around the town and gothic architecture. The train station is stunning both inside and out, and had a massive underground 'bike' parking lot. Michelle also liked the fact that in the train station, all she could smell was chocolate. Looking down, she noticed a chocolate fountain below for a snack stand. In the area near the train station, you notice a large community of Jews. With the black coats and hats, and the beards an/or two long locks of hair. It turns out that in this area, is the largest diamond cutting industry in the world, with 80% of the world's uncut diamonds passing through here.<br />
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We continued down along the pedestrianized shopping street, checking out the buzz of the city, and the hordes of shoppers. Then to the Grote Markt, which is the main square of town. On one side is the Renaissance style Stadhuis (city hall) built in 1565. The picturesque guildhalls line the rest of the square. Also, Belgium's largest cathedral is just off the side of the square.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidW_z67pHHTbJbfgduR9GNREVhJP42J8Xv4eIabvcqg8HwhyphenhyphendEN_sDI0c2wQmZEmtZn8U7AnvOQ9xGVpahfpXCeuCkHGIIVSinycNv_KoRTInchdNJHhXo6ZIEDX_LVTXt8DvCQA/s1600/tunnel.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidW_z67pHHTbJbfgduR9GNREVhJP42J8Xv4eIabvcqg8HwhyphenhyphendEN_sDI0c2wQmZEmtZn8U7AnvOQ9xGVpahfpXCeuCkHGIIVSinycNv_KoRTInchdNJHhXo6ZIEDX_LVTXt8DvCQA/s320/tunnel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biking the St. Annatunnel with perspective</td></tr>
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Antwerp's name stems from a legend. A giant named Druon Antigoon lived at the bend in the river and forced passing ships to pay a toll. Those who did not pay would lose their hand. Along came a Roman warrior named Silvius Brabo who killed the giant, chopped off the giant's hand and threw it in the river. The Flemish term for hand throwing is Hand werpen, and therefore, the name Antwerpen morphed from this. The statue in the centre of the Grote Markt is of a man throwing a hand.<br />
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Through tons of other wonderful buildings we also crossed under the river in the 572m long St. Annatunnel. A pedestrian and biking tunnel built in the 1930's, that seems to disappear into a pinpoint in the centre in a long perspective. It is flanked on each end by old wooden escalators, that you flip your front wheel sideways, and bring your bike up or down each end.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1iEH7em5XzeSQm045Y-BLEGUg2H9Vm5wWPktS9-fc5s3lQ2KYWfDDNZEJkFi1XmvFj1hzNJhq-attR7HgSvc5uWREcgHA_ybQyztC-5mLcLlBV-PkP3aQgDmqtNqlCRffblWICw/s1600/MAS.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1iEH7em5XzeSQm045Y-BLEGUg2H9Vm5wWPktS9-fc5s3lQ2KYWfDDNZEJkFi1XmvFj1hzNJhq-attR7HgSvc5uWREcgHA_ybQyztC-5mLcLlBV-PkP3aQgDmqtNqlCRffblWICw/s320/MAS.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MAS museum</td></tr>
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We also managed to visit the modern styled MAS museum. Not in the mood to cruise around the museum, we just made our way to the top floor for views over the old city, and docklands to the North. The museum had interesting curvy windows on all side, giving an interesting effect. The museum was just past the sailor's quarter and the red light district. Although similar to Amsterdam's red light district with girls sitting in windows, it is far smaller, but does have a legalized large brothel in the centre that apparently has a police station in it!! <br />
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In our evenings, we spent some quality time with Kim and Thomas. We had fabulous meals, and I made it my mission to try as many of the tripels and trappiste beers that I could. We had such a nice time just hanging out with them. On one evening we went for a ride with them to a run-down commercial site which is now used as a 'summer' pub. On the way there, they showed us Cogels-Osylei, a street where there was an architectural competition many years ago, and it is full of interesting and sometimes strange tall mansions. Might be too many sculptures for my liking, but the houses were massive! The pub was basically a warehouse, but it was busy and we enjoyed some time with their friends. It's always good to hang out with locals at their local establishments!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin biking near Antwerp Cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dwElkWADYQnn_rSG99v6FNzNR_uJbXlbtUjsNtXMpkAAiGsrXxFmaEjRL8U9ykFMrKgdyGLrIZiMpZMMyzCDCGRHGmyexf7kXy9BRPCv1-yrs-sAY3SdCuz-9bNFktNhd_2kMg/s1600/pub.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dwElkWADYQnn_rSG99v6FNzNR_uJbXlbtUjsNtXMpkAAiGsrXxFmaEjRL8U9ykFMrKgdyGLrIZiMpZMMyzCDCGRHGmyexf7kXy9BRPCv1-yrs-sAY3SdCuz-9bNFktNhd_2kMg/s320/pub.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the summer pub with friends</td></tr>
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Dokter Van de Perrelei 100, 2140 Antwerpen, Belgium51.207044715983024 4.4492053985595751.202070715983027 4.43933489855957 51.212018715983021 4.45907589855957tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-67366862364324272922012-07-01T22:29:00.000-07:002012-08-07T23:55:00.912-07:00Seeing a Torch and a Biscuit, Solihull, England<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630432461738/" target="_blank">To see our England photos, Click Here</a><br />
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England has been all about catching up. Hamish was someone we popped in on on our way back from the north. He was the organiser of the "Kayak the Zambezi" Festival we happened upon in Livingstone, Zambia, last October. Starting at the amazing Victoria Falls we rafted the river on the <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Sally, ..., ..., Andrea, Tamsin, and Ruben</td></tr>
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safety raft for the kayakers for a whole week and had the best, best time. To check out our blog of the festival <a href="http://www.martincallum.blogspot.co.uk/2011_10_01_archive.html" target="_blank">click here</a>. Anyway, Hamish was in good spirits in spite of being crazy busy planning this year's festival which sounded even bigger and better than before (hard to beat). It was great to see another friendly face from our travels who could relate to our experiences! <br />
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Back in Worcestershire it was more visiting with friends: this time Andrea and Sally who I did my PhD with years ago at Warwick University. Great to see them with their lovely, obedient kids and watch their developing personalities. Andrea and Sally were on form and I was pleased that they haven't changed a bit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crowd waiting to see the Olympic Torch in Solihull</td></tr>
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That same day we continued on to Katie and Simon's in Solihull. Katie is/was my best and longest-standing friend. I've known her since I was 5 years old - a long time ago now! **Mush<br />
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After a brief discussion, it was evident that Michelle fancied some wine with her good friends, and that we were going to spend the night. It was a fun evening for sure, and quite late, as we were catching up until about 2AM. We made a brash decision to all wake up early and go to watch the Olympic Torch relay as it was passing through Solihull about 7AM on the Sunday morning. Waking each other up, we wondered why we had made this choice, as we were all on about 4 hours sleep and quite hungover! <br />
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Walking to the relay location, we seemed like we were the only ones, and we made jokes about the 'hordes' of people that we would have to push through. Well, as we turned onto the main road, there <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Olympic Torch - not sure of the runner!</td></tr>
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<i>were</i> actually hordes of people, all here at 7AM on a Sunday. What great spirit from everyone, and gives us a good feeling about the upcoming Olympics. <br />
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We were in for a big surprise though, as while we were waiting, Michelle turned around to stroke a dog behind us, looked up and saw that it was my good friend Matt (Biscuit) from London, standing there behind us with his parents. We had no idea he was in Solihull, no idea his parents happened to live a block from Katie and Simon, and as it turns out, they were out partying until 2AM at a wedding the night before also, and also hungover! The stars really had to align for this chance meeting to take place, and what a great surprise it was! <br />
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Well, the torch did pass us eventually, and it was a bit of a blur. The initial party vehicles passed, and then probably only about 10 seconds of viewing, but everyone was in such good spirits, cheering, high-fiving, etc. But, we were still in shock about meeting Biscuit; it was a bit surreal. We had breakfast at Biscuit's parents place, and it was great to meet them for the first time. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon, Michelle, Biscuit, Katie, Dad and Mum Biscuit in Solihull</td></tr>
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After a bit of rest on the Sunday, we were off to Ledbury. Snaking our way through some beautiful countryside, and past the Malvern Hills. We managed to find our way close to Catriona's house. Catriona is a friend that Michelle lived with in Kenilworth, Warwickshire, while she was doing here PhD. Catriona now lives in a beautiful converted barn that is so her style. We had a lovely afternoon walking in the woods, eating a fabulous lunch she prepared, and mainly just catching up with her. <br />
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Back to the chance meeting - this is such a small world, I love when stuff like this happens!!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Catriona and her barn conversion</td></tr>
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Sharmans Cross, adj Robin Hood Cemetery, Shirley, West Midlands B90, UK52.4207005 -1.821275452.415858500000006 -1.8311458999999999 52.4255425 -1.8114049tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-37648870953251225672012-06-25T14:41:00.000-07:002012-07-19T22:28:49.993-07:00Back to the Western World, Bromsgrove, England<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157630432461738/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos from England, Click Here</a><br />
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It was a fairly low profile re-entry into the western world and our first week back was just a big sigh of relief, really. Martin, for the first time on our trip got quite ill with a tummy bug the first day back and so it was definitely low-key for him. It was great to spend some time with my family noting that not much had changed - a good thing! While we're flitting around UK and Europe for the next few months we will be staying with my brother, Richard, and his family. It was great to see how much my niece and nephew had grown into nice, fun children. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Becky and Michelle in Leeds<br />
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So that we could have some freedom and not feel immediately trapped, my brother found us a run-around car (thanks Rick and Helen). This meant we could start to get out and see old friends. Our first trip was North to see my good friend, Becky, in Leeds from Secondary school. It was great to catch up with her life, her fast-growing little boys, reminisce on old times and just plain old hang out. Claire and Ralf were friends from Martin's first worldly travels and they live in the Lake District. Ralf and Claire are well traveled and have lived in East Africa (specifically Tanzania) so we could recount our numerous stories assured that we wouldn't bore their socks off! And what a great reason to get to see my favourite place in England too - The Lakes. It was rather wet up there and the day before we arrived it had rained one month's-worth of rain in one day! The flooding was amazing and <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoOJCWh6ALmPezPtMfnszqzOkqIXs9faUYCN8qjaT-Q7sSMkuv_E1UODCxQRyFlmMjtnrA4j6ymSOct89YBfTnAQ6yLYwd1NDARfqT6tWNoThn1CzbVxlf-7b3SsiHxjfnbTPpg/s1600/ralf+c.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoOJCWh6ALmPezPtMfnszqzOkqIXs9faUYCN8qjaT-Q7sSMkuv_E1UODCxQRyFlmMjtnrA4j6ymSOct89YBfTnAQ6yLYwd1NDARfqT6tWNoThn1CzbVxlf-7b3SsiHxjfnbTPpg/s320/ralf+c.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin with Ralf and Claire in Ireby<br />
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there were stories of firemen having to rescue sheep trapped in fields etc. Ralf and Claire had only just moved into their new house three days before we landed on their doorstep (impressively they were pretty much unpacked and settled in too!). Ralf gave us a quick tour of their area, a favourite of mine, Keswick and Borrowdale (including the school where Ralf is head master). A couple of days there then a quick pop-in on Colin and Flo who live on the edge of the Lakes, now in their 80s and avidly following our blog on the internet. Finally it was over to the east of the country, a part of England that I don't know well, to see a new friend Gill near Newcastle. We had a great time remembering last Christmas which we spent with her in one of our favourite countries, Malawi. She spoiled and pampered us rotten and we explored a little of the Northumberland coast together and it's stunning Durstanburgh Castle. An enjoyable travel week in England and fab to see old and new faces alike. * Mush<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNFEfwXgwfxl0XzZAoqUv-5OSsZrNt0Lljl9xJ9GOUq97PjS6-VFsgjNuB0GDuOgQyac4lnOQGpQZd_olg2JWJLP-3SwiqP4hOfJ8NxG8uimlUNZeNxaXAWhAvB5L1p7RHLlI7w/s1600/flo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjNFEfwXgwfxl0XzZAoqUv-5OSsZrNt0Lljl9xJ9GOUq97PjS6-VFsgjNuB0GDuOgQyac4lnOQGpQZd_olg2JWJLP-3SwiqP4hOfJ8NxG8uimlUNZeNxaXAWhAvB5L1p7RHLlI7w/s320/flo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle with Colin and Flo in their garden - Culgaith</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9cOtx-du2FRwFG7Tn1j0HmvfufAj0wKx9uA99xz2kdY6-eoY0leTV3STvMzPPdtAWdmLH65wZdvEiH17U1d5fp_QjCT29lFLSiYdQw4dUE8zFKR-jLqtmGYcc4xxYdkaUmTx2w/s1600/gill.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9cOtx-du2FRwFG7Tn1j0HmvfufAj0wKx9uA99xz2kdY6-eoY0leTV3STvMzPPdtAWdmLH65wZdvEiH17U1d5fp_QjCT29lFLSiYdQw4dUE8zFKR-jLqtmGYcc4xxYdkaUmTx2w/s320/gill.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gill and Michelle at Durstanburgh Castle<br />
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<br /><br /></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0460 Birmingham Rd, Marlbrook, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire B61 0HR, UK52.3645103393563 -2.046031951904296952.3548143393563 -2.0657729519042967 52.3742063393563 -2.0262909519042971tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-70193497232875130862012-06-11T09:16:00.000-07:002012-07-15T09:38:02.997-07:00Out of Africa<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Here, as I sit on the eve of our return to England and reflect upon Africa - what we've experienced, how we've felt, people we've met and the complexities and challenges of independent travel, I can honestly say we have thoroughly and absolutely enjoyed this mighty continent. I would not say that we absolutely LOVE Africa. We've met many people who feel their heart and soul are in Africa, but we don't feel that intensity. There are some countries that have stood out for sure - Madagascar, Malawi, Namibia, Burundi, for example. And I can see why people fall in love with Africa - the wide open spaces, fantastic landscapes, big skies, diverse cultures, amazing wildlife. I love the weathered faces of the people with their varied cultures, colourful traditions, 'logic', thinking and attitudes - and how challenging all at the same time! Just thinking about how people live too: in anything from mud huts and woven grass to huge concrete mansions surrounded by barbed wire and electric fences. There may not always be electricity and water (and certainly not hot water), but many live by firelight, the stars and the moon.<br />
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So, yes, as I look back, as much as we are tired and SO ready to be 'home', we will come back one day. Indeed, Ethiopia, about which we have yet to share our adventures, has been a great note to end on. It holds too much magic and mystery for us not to come back! But right now I'm looking forward to leaving dusty, brown landscapes (though transformed in raining season) and trading it in for the green, soggy land of my birth, England. British soil: Bring It On Baby! * Mush</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-4075403766849864382012-06-10T04:15:00.000-07:002012-07-11T09:34:40.574-07:00Cheering on the Dutch, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629985916520/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Ethiopia, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin with Dave, Marly and Jochen at National Cafe</td></tr>
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We were excited heading back to Addis Ababa. It would be the last leg of the Africa portion of our trip, and would lead to family and friends back in England. So, we boarded our last bus, this one direct from Harar to Addis Ababa, and what a ride it was. It took us basically along a very high ridge with fabulous views to both sides, steep down into the valleys below. Ethiopia is quite green and lush in places, from what we have seen, and this was no exception. Interesting round houses dotting the hillside. The trip went well, and was comfortable, but got a little long as we were entering Addis - turns out we hit the rush hour's' traffic!!<br />
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Back to Wim's Holland House, and familiarity. We were also excited because we could go to our lovely little local cafe - National Cafe, which we did frequently. Also, we found our tent neighbours from the previous time were still there. Dave and Marly from Holland had some motorbike troubles <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin, Michelle, Marly and Jochen heading to the embassy</td></tr>
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and were waiting on a new engine from Holland, so in Addis they stayed. To our good fortune though, because we really enjoyed spending time with them. Along with Jochen, a German guy biking from Germany to Cape Town, we enjoyed many meals at National, along with some friendly times around camp.<br />
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We had expectations of doing some day trips around Addis, but that never really materialized. We were happy just to hang out with new friends. We did manage to walk around Addis and see a few sights. The Red Terror Martyr's Museum showed the difficulties and deaths attributed to the fight with the Communist military dictatorship.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loving the orange</td></tr>
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On our last night before our flight back to England, Dave and Marly managed to get us invited to the Dutch Embassy for a party celebrating the first game the Dutch were playing in the Euro Football/Soccer Championship. How lucky were we!!! Along with Jochen, we dressed in as much orange as we could find, and made our way to the embassy. It was quite the building and grounds, and they put on a great spread. For us, FREE beer/wine and food including cheese!! What a score for us, and as much as we wanted! Only problem was the Danish..... Nobody told them they were supposed to lose to the Dutch, so most went home from the party disappointed. Michelle, Jochen and I were probably the last to leave the embassy!<br />
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But, the party didn't stop there. Back at Wim's there was another game showing and plenty of beers (not free) flowing. The girls were all dancing the night away. Then, after Wim's was slowing down, we got invited out to a local club with one of the local guys. Michelle was too tired to partake in any more fun, but I joined Dave and Marly 'shaking our cans' in a local dance club until the wee hours of the morning. First time I had been out in a club in ages, and it was good fun. Hot and sweaty, crazy dancing!! As we were about to leave, we got dragged in to a coffee ceremony, and I <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFwwRguZXlRTth2bqchwl8J0J7vmvM00StbZtgXqPodgnaYR-8_2WMaaPzxksoggAtn42bDHLXo5VV1sVfV__2Cyo87WzPoJgnxBYDXCSIYY8jTZMe5hf3gMfbDXajD6mtdHg-6w/s1600/P1150861.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFwwRguZXlRTth2bqchwl8J0J7vmvM00StbZtgXqPodgnaYR-8_2WMaaPzxksoggAtn42bDHLXo5VV1sVfV__2Cyo87WzPoJgnxBYDXCSIYY8jTZMe5hf3gMfbDXajD6mtdHg-6w/s320/P1150861.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin and Marly at the Addis Club</td></tr>
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drank two of the espresso-like coffees. Tasty, but for a non-coffee drinker, probably not the best idea at 4:30AM!!! I was wired!<br />
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Other than packing the next day, we didn't have much energy for anything else. We did have time for eating though, and National Cafe it was! Good eating with good friends. When we came back to Wim's, we found a guy waiting to see us. He was a friend of some guys we met briefly in Uganda, and we had tried to meet up with him without any luck. Well, he happened to show up just in the knick of time, as we only had an hour before we were off to the airport. In true Ethiopian and African generosity, Samson bought us a final drink on the continent, and even drove us to airport, saving us the final taxi hassle - thanks so much Samson, and sorry we didn't connect sooner!!!! *Stub <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marly and Dave at the Dutch Embassy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSMHgrty3gRxB_q_Ero-ODEL1rm4pH7SZluU5NoYKMC14nBj8G9LY1rTxjm6kc2Z46lYoJnWMIfFi_-ixuTmoA5X4JTtwfone0oL_PpOT1yEPuGmVHwHMxgzn-e2Bxb_-9jL54Lw/s1600/P1030342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSMHgrty3gRxB_q_Ero-ODEL1rm4pH7SZluU5NoYKMC14nBj8G9LY1rTxjm6kc2Z46lYoJnWMIfFi_-ixuTmoA5X4JTtwfone0oL_PpOT1yEPuGmVHwHMxgzn-e2Bxb_-9jL54Lw/s320/P1030342.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jochen and Martin celebrating at the Dutch Embassy</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1493259584"></span><span id="goog_1493259585"></span></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Addis Ababa, Ethiopia9.022736 38.7467998.8972785 38.588870500000006 9.1481935 38.9047275tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-59464706212817156222012-06-07T03:57:00.000-07:002012-07-11T08:10:54.369-07:00Feeding Wild Hyenas in Harar, Ethiopia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629985916520/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Ethiopia, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhS5C5YEIO56H4oi8Hnl_HIi7PkKNWdl6Yehf4oO9ApcEig9Yn_8xdbs76kPWoHbIfIUa12CVzQTzR-O4xGiOklGNd1x5CsL6r8mQOmyTFz0YQhGf9TwPpji0Yxog7mj7vqL51fA/s1600/P1030180.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhS5C5YEIO56H4oi8Hnl_HIi7PkKNWdl6Yehf4oO9ApcEig9Yn_8xdbs76kPWoHbIfIUa12CVzQTzR-O4xGiOklGNd1x5CsL6r8mQOmyTFz0YQhGf9TwPpji0Yxog7mj7vqL51fA/s320/P1030180.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin walking the Market Street in Harar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zb-USdGmqM_9KksH_Y7kQ4v5gDs57dUhluBkdS3bmt4fZ5k_jgisqMijCeCALHqaG_RQoyNGx7-LBXiecETD-tXdR_7tVbhyhN8P3Sh_nULHi-UbRZ4f0qDlaWFsPS854FtkrQ/s1600/harar+town.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Zb-USdGmqM_9KksH_Y7kQ4v5gDs57dUhluBkdS3bmt4fZ5k_jgisqMijCeCALHqaG_RQoyNGx7-LBXiecETD-tXdR_7tVbhyhN8P3Sh_nULHi-UbRZ4f0qDlaWFsPS854FtkrQ/s320/harar+town.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The colours in the market street</td></tr>
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Landing in Dire Dawa after a free nights stay in a fancy, but dated massive room in Addis, we were on our way to Harar. Another battle with mini-bus drivers as the asking price always kept going up. Luckily, some locals stepped in and straightened them out, allowing us to pay the normal price! It was an hours drive through the dry, hilly terrain on the Eastern side of Ethiopia towards Somalia.<br />
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Harar is an ancient walled city, with 368 alleyways crammed in to 1 sq km. Again, in the Unesco books as a World Heritage Site, it has hidden gems of architecture deep within the walls. We decided to tour ourselves around the alleys first, getting a feel for the place. We did this with relative disappointment. We are usually able to find some great places and cool people, but we had limited <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5LsXcvz9rtP5Nv9BdO8E9C6gec3NmSnOrqbhgoAysiHE6KCdDmeFdlJV906c9TeV7I-ho8cLThY0uKL3uke5enqolxQvU-JEifp5YdN-CJJ1ZV8HbRDQhP5x4gNu-Dv7MWUQYig/s1600/DSC_3386.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5LsXcvz9rtP5Nv9BdO8E9C6gec3NmSnOrqbhgoAysiHE6KCdDmeFdlJV906c9TeV7I-ho8cLThY0uKL3uke5enqolxQvU-JEifp5YdN-CJJ1ZV8HbRDQhP5x4gNu-Dv7MWUQYig/s320/DSC_3386.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loaded Down Peugeot 404 taxi</td></tr>
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success in Harar. At first glance, it was a pretty scruffy Muslim city, with little character.<br />
However, what it lacked in charm in the daytime, it made up for in adrenaline in the evening. Mostly on our own, we tracked down the local hyena man outside the city walls. What I know of the story is, the wild hyenas around town were becoming a pest, as they would come in to town looking for food. A wild animal with jaws that can chew through bone, is not great to have around the playing kids and such, so the animals were being killed. One of more men took it upon themselves to feed the hyenas nightly, therefore, take away the threat of them coming in to town, and therefore, preserving them. Well, this has continued for about 30 years or so, and may now be some sort of religious ritual, as well as a bit of a tourist attraction.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDm50BgDUgl1YjqJHYJMxMJLotYdXWU3nkYfoMJ3kDbdM-NjzI9m44c3kDA3ofZfCRDii-mRXdKE5LxiY-VV1Sk0Nb-rxacHPyl7POl6TH9kY3v3b5Sl-vILxZ0k3QWCUXCyBeaA/s1600/martin+hyena.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDm50BgDUgl1YjqJHYJMxMJLotYdXWU3nkYfoMJ3kDbdM-NjzI9m44c3kDA3ofZfCRDii-mRXdKE5LxiY-VV1Sk0Nb-rxacHPyl7POl6TH9kY3v3b5Sl-vILxZ0k3QWCUXCyBeaA/s320/martin+hyena.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin feeding the wild hyena</td></tr>
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Nervously, we awaited the arrival of the hyenas, as the locals actually 'call' them each night. And, slowly, the hyenas crept towards us. Before we knew it, there was about 8 or 9 hyenas within 10m of us. They seemed quite timid though, and more scared of us than we were of them. Up close, they are actually quite beautiful animals, with wonderful eyes! And then, the hyena man started pulling out pieces of meat, and one by one, the hyenas came to get a piece. Then it was our turn, and I must say, I was quite nervous. Even more nervous when he convinced me to place a stick in my mouth, with a piece of meat only 20cm away from my head, on the other end of the stick. Watching the powerful jaws, gingerly taking the meat from the stick, SOOOO close to my eyes was a nerve-wracking experience to say the least. Michelle was also brave enough to feed them from her mouth, but was pretty scared too. I think I was shaking <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local Coffee Pots in the market </td></tr>
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after the experience. But it wasn't over there. He actually made me get down on all fours, and hung a piece of meat over my head. The hyena climbed up on my back, with it's massive paws on my shoulders, reaching up for the meat. Whoa!!!! That didn't feel right, but I made it out in one piece!!! What a crazy evening. We went out for dinner with two nice Japanese girls who also took part in the feeding. After feeding the hyenas, we fed ourselves with some delicious local injera and stews!!<br />
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The next day, we had arranged to get a local guide, as we figured that we had to find the gems in town. It was a great decision as Abdi would walk us down little alleys, and through some non-distinct doorways, finding wonderful buildings that were so hidden. We were in traditional houses with crazy decorations, museums from where Ras Tafari <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abdi and Michelle in a Traditional Harari Home</td></tr>
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(the former name of Emperor Haile Selassie) used to live, another in Rimbaud's (the famous poet) House. City walls and gates, temples, churches, merchants, tombs, coffee factories, and markets (in which we bought one of the traditional coffee pots). All the while, giving us good historical information and having a wonderful personality. We enjoyed our time with Abdi, and meeting some of his relatives and friends in town. He even took us to another hyena man that night, a similar experience to the previous night, but still no less scary. It really changed our feeling of the town, and made it much more special. We met lots of locals on his tour, having Coca Cola with the kids and taking photos with them, being a very special time. Thanks Abdi for making our time more special. And thanks to the people of Harar, for their culture, colourful clothing, friendliness, and bizarre nightly rituals!! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a Coke with the Peugeot 404 behind</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coca Cola and photos with the kids</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wild hyena on my back - check out the size of the paws</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle's turn at feeding the hyena</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1737503445"></span><span id="goog_1737503446"></span></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com04, Harar, Ethiopia9.304648 42.1326419.296813 42.1227705 9.312483 42.1425115tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-67259736161056754982012-06-04T14:54:00.000-07:002012-07-11T05:05:00.629-07:00Africa's Camelot, Gonder, Ethiopia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629985916520/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Ethiopia, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fasilada's Castle in the Royal Enclosure<br />
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Our next stop was Gonder, about an hour's flight from Lalibela. Sad to leave the surreal history of Lalibela, as we could have easily spent more time soaking up the local culture and amazing sights. Again, to save about a day's drive, we took a 45 minute flight to Gonder. We were lucky to grab a free ride with an older American couple into town. And then found a hotel that had been recommended but was not the best. But as is typical of our travels, we made do with this as it was much more within our budget.<br />
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It was quickly off to the Royal Enclosure, home of ex-Emperor Fasilada's castle. Yet another Unesco World Heritage Site, as it was built during his, and subsequent emperor's rule in the 17th and 18th centuries. Not at all what you would expect to see in Ethiopia, or anywhere in Africa for that matter. I felt like I was back in Ol' England. The <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMS78fxpevU7xaU-ImYNFtz0E7qAgoF0DU4hBEX1qBMScjQ91cdecU8E5k9Fid08lHaPGiw9fALc3mOiXSSoKBqNHLChvp4WIGQ6CQTtKTumGEJoU0e03uRz07UnkvzE91dFCBKA/s1600/bath+turret.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMS78fxpevU7xaU-ImYNFtz0E7qAgoF0DU4hBEX1qBMScjQ91cdecU8E5k9Fid08lHaPGiw9fALc3mOiXSSoKBqNHLChvp4WIGQ6CQTtKTumGEJoU0e03uRz07UnkvzE91dFCBKA/s320/bath+turret.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turret and Wall around Fasilada's Bath<br />
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castle has a very Camelot look to it, and I half expected some knights to be feasting inside. Each Emperor seemed to add his own building to the enclosure, and there were even lion enclosures or cages, for their pet lions!<br />
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Attached to the ticket was a secondary site, Fasilada's Baths. We weren't even planning to go there, but because it was free with our ticket, we thought we take a peek. Glad we did, because this place had even more character and ambience than the castle. Possibly Fasilada's second home, there was a square building sitting in a stark white pool, with a bridge over to the entrance. Apparently, the pool is filled naturally from the flowing river, and is still filled for a yearly celebration/water baptism called Timkat - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timkat" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timkat</a>. It is quite the celebration from what we hear.<br />
The large bath is surrounded by a protective wall with cool turrets, and then a series of seating bleachers for Timkat observers. Immediately surrounding the bath is an ancient wall, that has been overgrown by tree roots in a site reminiscent of Angkor Wat. A wonderful setting, <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6b1gMehVJUpAUuEdbd0mJv_5Der54DPd6Fb0p-S5JXD7rbOC-1YTXt_cJX1mH8AuCMFG-o2-8gc27Ilgr8grQs40ey649SKOedzKhDWvWPoMWIpzMD0q2rIHCG-qprfbDtedTQ/s1600/roots.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6b1gMehVJUpAUuEdbd0mJv_5Der54DPd6Fb0p-S5JXD7rbOC-1YTXt_cJX1mH8AuCMFG-o2-8gc27Ilgr8grQs40ey649SKOedzKhDWvWPoMWIpzMD0q2rIHCG-qprfbDtedTQ/s320/roots.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walls around the Bath, overgrown with tree roots<br />
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made even more interesting by four wild Spotted Eagle Owls that were sitting on the low tree branches above the pool. They were beautiful creatures, and they sat unfazed, just watching us.<br />
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The Simien Mountains are relatively close to Gondar, and we had hoped to make a trip there, as we had heard wonderful things. Unfortunately, we found it was too difficult to see in a short period of time, and would need a few days hiking to see the most spectacular sights. So, we put this info in our back pocket, for the time we return to Ethiopia. Instead, that afternoon, we walked out of town to Debre Berhan Selassie Church. Not expecting too much looking at the exterior, the interior was a great surprise, with some amazing murals, still very clear to see. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">104 cherubs on the Ceiling of Debre Berhan Selassie Church<br />
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They depict many scenes from the bible, and also some interesting gruesome scenes, and depictions of Hell. On the ceiling were 104 individually painted Ethiopian cherubs, all with a slightly different expression on their face! The Lonely Planet describes it as 104 Mona Lisa's!!<br />
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An early final morning, we arranged with a local guide Philimon, to take us to some mountains closer to Gonder. Philimon had great English, and we really enjoyed his company. Turns out, we did go to a portion of the Simien Mountains, and had some wonderful mountainous views in the crisp, morning air! The other highlight of this area is the rare Gelada Baboon. Also called the Bleeding Heart Baboon for the distinct chest patch that is used to attract a mate. They are only found in the Simien Mountains, and are the last remaining grazing baboons, which means they stay out of the tree and find their food on the ground, grazing for grasses. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above the Simien Mountains<br />
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We were lucky to see a troop of baboons, but none really close enough to see the Bleeding Heart. We could, however, see the wonderful light brown coats of shaggy hair. <br />
The previous day, we had reserved our next flights on Ethiopian Air, with a less than helpful, but grumpy agent. We were trying to book a flight back to Addis Ababa, and then another on to Dire Dawa, and I think we interrupted his lunch plans. He advised us against the booking as there was only 1.5 hours layover in Addis. We've been on much shorter connections, so ignored his warnings. Today, we arrived at the airport to find the flight had mechanical difficulties, and they ended up flying another plane up to complete the journeys. That means we were 4 hours late arriving in Addis, but somehow we had sweet talked the Ethiopian Air officials, and they put us up in a hotel in Addis for free, AND gave us dinner and breakfast. Not bad service considering we had only missed a flight valued at $40 US in the first place. We get really lucky sometimes, and chalk it up to good karma!!! **Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Spotted Eagle Owl</td></tr>
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com03, Gondar, Ethiopia12.6 37.466666711.608297 36.2032392 13.591702999999999 38.730094199999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-53752812235208482432012-06-01T13:37:00.000-07:002012-07-05T03:56:25.779-07:00Going Underground in Stunning Lalibela, Ethiopia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629985916520/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Ethiopia, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin overlooking Bet Giyorgis</td></tr>
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I remember my father gave me a book "The Earth from the Air". Beautiful photos of some of the world's most interesting places, taken from above. One of the most intriguing photos in the book was an underground, cross-shaped church, carved out of solid rock, called Bet Giyorgis. Turns out there are actually eleven individually shaped rock-hewn churches, along with underground tunnels, and deep carved walkways in the Unesco World Heritage Site in Lalibela. These are the type of things from a fairytale, and a sight that Michelle and I thoroughly enjoy visiting.<br />
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Packing up at four in the morning is not much fun especially as it's hard to do quietly without disturbing other campers. Thankfully, our arranged taxi - an old Peugeot 404 - was there on time. We were a little concerned to find the driver hidden under the bonnet/hood tinkering with the engine muttering something about 'problem with car', but we were encouraged when he opened the doors for us and we got in. The airport is 5km out of Addis and thankfully for us we had lots of time and at 4:30 in the morning there is little traffic, because we sputtered and limped our way at only about 5km/h, on what was certainly not all four cylinders! - in a battered old yellow and green striped Peugeot taxi. We made the flight easily on time, too bad the flight wasn't!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnQoExOtA19KSo9j_z2a2PJvobnuqLFsoFOOUvWkM4Bbsj5jZ0EPbpQgR1_13TdJ9LWbSIabmIXnV_amkJVXVq_XbOdOWkTsrQirCNk8rhx5s5mDZ047seiPmVR4EckPki21VEgw/s1600/Martin+on+Bad+People+Side+of+Bet+Gabriel-Rafael%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnQoExOtA19KSo9j_z2a2PJvobnuqLFsoFOOUvWkM4Bbsj5jZ0EPbpQgR1_13TdJ9LWbSIabmIXnV_amkJVXVq_XbOdOWkTsrQirCNk8rhx5s5mDZ047seiPmVR4EckPki21VEgw/s320/Martin+on+Bad+People+Side+of+Bet+Gabriel-Rafael%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High above the moat of Bet Gabriel-Rafael</td></tr>
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King Lalibela ruled over the kingdom and area called Roha in the 12th or 13th century. Legend has it that the king was exiled to Jerusalem, and intrigued by the buildings he found, vowed to build a new holy city upon his return. And that, he definitely DID!! With features like the River Jordan, and the Tomb of Adam, it seems like he was trying to recreate Jerusalem on African soil. The work force and time to create this masterpiece, must have been astronomical.<br />
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Lalibela is probably the best known of Ethiopia's tourists attraction, and for good reason. The eleven very different styles of rock hewn churches were carved and dug out of the red volcanic rock!! Sometimes giving the sense that they are carved into the hillside, and other times, entirely under the rock surface, complete with underground tunnels to enter. These churches are not built, but carved from the solid rock, and are therefore, one SOLID piece. Exterior and interiors all chiselled from the rock, and at times, with great details.<br />
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After arriving by plane, we took a shuttle through the barren landscape, up the steep pass to Lalibela. We found a place to stay called Tukul Village, which had rooms in beautiful round houses in a style typical to the area. The rooms cost about $70, but they let us camp on the grounds for much less. With this, they also provided us access to an unused room for showering and bathroom facilities. It was the nicest shower we had seen in quite some time!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNxC5lZgJ92aAUyGhhsx53Bpp4I7aqaGBB2h6nQ4Ci1O6QbtWPLDUARiE22drjUCrSDaGe0cDqybpU72q7ymp7-nQtEJ4y7yErb1RiCf5drqSuu6zCmjHgebP5tQr34-5VsQoxA/s1600/Local+Christian+Orthodox%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNxC5lZgJ92aAUyGhhsx53Bpp4I7aqaGBB2h6nQ4Ci1O6QbtWPLDUARiE22drjUCrSDaGe0cDqybpU72q7ymp7-nQtEJ4y7yErb1RiCf5drqSuu6zCmjHgebP5tQr34-5VsQoxA/s320/Local+Christian+Orthodox%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colourful Local at Prayer</td></tr>
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Hustling excitedly over to the church areas, we were greeted often by locals along the road. Friendly, and chatty, but we always felt there was a hidden agenda. The masses of locals were directing us towards the ticket office, and some hoped to be our guide. Buying a ticket for about $20 US, gives you access to the church areas for 5 days. Most people wouldn't spend that much time, but in our experience at amazing sites like this, WE just might need that length of time. We decided to explore the areas on our own first before possibly hiring a guide to get more information later. We spent about 2 hours that day picking our jaws up from the floor, after seeing the stunning marvels that King Lalibela had created! You basically walk through tunnels or deep channels carved through the rock and arrive at the base of yet another amazing monument. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z6Ls5fyHF_kMAMAjF4hPCG9ONqgO6zldxmtPSfFFNhaLog7ig-l7vbNObP6toaCVh-eX286_kAJVgacbboDfbWUbsKT959H-qNwpXI6_GylLaEcSGDPphAPpMeESoqya6VbKUw/s1600/st+george.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z6Ls5fyHF_kMAMAjF4hPCG9ONqgO6zldxmtPSfFFNhaLog7ig-l7vbNObP6toaCVh-eX286_kAJVgacbboDfbWUbsKT959H-qNwpXI6_GylLaEcSGDPphAPpMeESoqya6VbKUw/s320/st+george.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. George Day worship at Bet Giyorgis</td></tr>
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The atmosphere around the churches is full of interesting character too. Walking around the church areas, the local Christian Orthodox worshippers are often seen praying, chanting, reciting the bible, or just being there with their gods at their holy places. The last stop of the day was at Bet Giyorgis (St. George Church), King Lalibela's masterpiece. This is one of those types of places that defies all reason. It is a totally underground, and the entire building is in the shape of a Greek cross. The drained rooftop contains seven carved crosses, and is at ground level. The base of the church is 15m deep from the surrounding hole, with vertical walls surrounding and no railings. It was an unbelievable sight, hanging over the edge and looking down into the surreal church in the hole. We were able to enter using the tunnels, and see the place from another perspective. We were awestruck.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGnTeGwfp3z2WiLBavCg_23UlkVsE23t0unErcKekMb3f5dKVtTnf7jNGi3V1W3hOpFzHtffFF4BMlP0UIYA2qpw0rlDgcZfMoR4MnfW89hvPbXyP91jofhxt4XZiCCwRQfxpPQ/s1600/Different+View%252C+Bet+Giyorgis%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivGnTeGwfp3z2WiLBavCg_23UlkVsE23t0unErcKekMb3f5dKVtTnf7jNGi3V1W3hOpFzHtffFF4BMlP0UIYA2qpw0rlDgcZfMoR4MnfW89hvPbXyP91jofhxt4XZiCCwRQfxpPQ/s320/Different+View%252C+Bet+Giyorgis%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worshippers down inside Bet Giyorgis</td></tr>
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As we are often lucky during our travels, wouldn't you know it but we happened to be there on the monthly St. George Day worship. We woke early the next morning and returned to Bet Giyorgis to see the ceremony. Hundreds of white clad worshippers surrounded the church, while the sermon was being read. Down the bottom, various colourfully dressed priests were blessing the followers by either rubbing a cross all over their bodies, or showering them with holy water from the pools. And, another priest was sat on a carpet, collecting all the donations given, or thrown in from above the walls. We were so enthralled with the whole scene, that we sat and watched for 3.5 hours, and at times joined some of the people at the church edge to feel the moment. Definitely a type of sight that we will seldom have the pleasure to see again in our lifetime. <br />
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Even though we had already spent the equivalent of one day in the churches, we hadn't even seen any of the second group of churches. These ones included Bet Gabriel-Rafael, Bet Merkorios, Bet Amanuel, and Bet Abba Libanos. Walking up to Gabriel-Rafael, there was a large rock-hewn wall called the 'Way to Heaven', and then curiously, when it was built there was no bridge over the deep trench to the entrance. It is unknown how they used to enter, or whether this was used as protected palace for the King. From here, there was a long, and pitch black tunnel, probably around 50m to the next church. You actually climb out of a hole, between two door flaps to access Bet Merkorios. And then weave through more tunnels to the <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuduB-IxxVvaZBinOC2vZA4TLz4cNY5hM2fD2l4VQZLsX5Tqccmx4ruTzw1HlA94iJQC5cGg9U3GEfWpITEJMkwPcTRJ8EzeawnD7XDRRsDESlhCgm8vUWbds7v87h9inB46kgxA/s1600/Priest+at+Bet+Abba+Libanos%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuduB-IxxVvaZBinOC2vZA4TLz4cNY5hM2fD2l4VQZLsX5Tqccmx4ruTzw1HlA94iJQC5cGg9U3GEfWpITEJMkwPcTRJ8EzeawnD7XDRRsDESlhCgm8vUWbds7v87h9inB46kgxA/s320/Priest+at+Bet+Abba+Libanos%252C+Lalibela%252C+Ethiopia.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Priest at Bet Abba-Libanos</td></tr>
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monolithic (free standing) Bet Amanuel, the most finely carved exterior of all the churches. Each of the churches has a specific interior style or trait, and this one has a double Aksumite frieze in the nave, and actually has a second floor. <br />
And the final church in this group is accessed by a steep walled, skinny hallway and tunnel, leading to the semi-monolithic Bet Abba Libanos. This church is not free standing, but actually is attached to the rock at the base and the roof, although it is carved clear all around the walls. We were met here by a white clad priest, sitting on the steps which made for a great photo. <br />
After leaving this group, we accidentally stumbled upon these little doors, about 1m tall, carved in to the rock face - they looked like little hobbit houses. An old man gingerly walked along, unlocked and essentially crawled into one of these little houses. Turns out it was a convent and monastery, where they actually live in these little rock dwellings - bizarre!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhyphenhyphenoQhncQh3V55NI4cC9_09SGWATRkdyjF5hRCT_r1FdYzBj3CFaa-nJwqiaOIYnI7uaErrdxoWs38OpN3-M_XmMxPqWO9remDvlyAuEnDP-0AGXMVHaBFDvuHWZx_t_tUZ4t_Q/s1600/tukuls.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhyphenhyphenoQhncQh3V55NI4cC9_09SGWATRkdyjF5hRCT_r1FdYzBj3CFaa-nJwqiaOIYnI7uaErrdxoWs38OpN3-M_XmMxPqWO9remDvlyAuEnDP-0AGXMVHaBFDvuHWZx_t_tUZ4t_Q/s320/tukuls.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tukul houses in Lalibela</td></tr>
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The village of Lalibela was quite scenic and perched on the hillside. It contained many local style houses called tukuls, and were basically round stone huts covered with mud. Interesting in the fact they were actually two storey huts, so much taller than anything we were used to seeing. Also, plenty of interesting characters walking around in various religious clothing, with some wrinkly, weathered faces.<br />
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We managed to find two great little local restaurants in town, nothing more than tiny buildings with plastic chairs or benches, that served some delicious national food, complete with injera. We returned to these friendly places a couple of times, and also found ourselves a friendly lady for our ice cold Coca Cola fix, that we frequented. But, all places offer the coffee ceremony, warming the coffee pot over the fire, with a table full of expresso coffee cups at the ready.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iVnSBRUOpiX6ChCjCKDlTwWIsq5vWP5idEqpqCxWYEH7EGbedx19ha8KjGnn3aPnoGm2XK6CgZQiQE1lXmn8p_fhN8ecORdJjeXzmUZL6wWchQIC0V1d64IQp3_GklEbmCR2Pg/s1600/with.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iVnSBRUOpiX6ChCjCKDlTwWIsq5vWP5idEqpqCxWYEH7EGbedx19ha8KjGnn3aPnoGm2XK6CgZQiQE1lXmn8p_fhN8ecORdJjeXzmUZL6wWchQIC0V1d64IQp3_GklEbmCR2Pg/s320/with.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin and Wondale at Bet Abba-Libanos</td></tr>
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On our final day, we decided to hire a guide to get even more info about the places, and hopefully find some hidden gems. We haggled for price, and finally hired Wondale for the day. Turns out Wondale is a priest, but a relatively young one at that. It was interesting touring around with him, as often a local would approach and he would bless them both with words and a hand cross that he would tap on their forehead and then they would kiss the cross. Once again, Michelle and I had arrived at the churches early in the morning, and were present for the morning mass, but sat quietly off to the side. Wondale did give us the extra information we were after, and with him, we toured the SouthEast group in the afternoon, but first the NorthWest group of churches in-depth. This included the largest church of all, Bet Medhane Alem that resembled a Greek temple, with pillars all around. Bet Maryam was the most ornate interior with frescos and carvings, but also had symbolic <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJGxBmAa_iesTX2lQcWXjcvFRqxt0c96mAsYWZY3ZZPxz086HgEe4drBcfmeFYaJhcIy_Anci6tBfRGCwwcY0lpGjeNo7hR1ns9XwXEgxbt1cScvOGoarEvc-y4oloHl4lXHtRA/s1600/coffee.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJGxBmAa_iesTX2lQcWXjcvFRqxt0c96mAsYWZY3ZZPxz086HgEe4drBcfmeFYaJhcIy_Anci6tBfRGCwwcY0lpGjeNo7hR1ns9XwXEgxbt1cScvOGoarEvc-y4oloHl4lXHtRA/s320/coffee.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Coke Lady, and her Coffee Ceremony</td></tr>
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window shapes. Bet Golgotha, had large carved figures in the recessed wall, and is said to contain the tomb of King Lalibela himself. As it is a rather holy place indeed, it is no surprise that tourists aren't allowed to see the tomb. <br />
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All in all, it was a surreal experience in Lalibela. Clambering around through underground tunnels, seeing the church marvels, mixing with the very religious locals, and enjoying the town for all of it's history, people and amazing culture and religion was an time that I will never forget! One of the highlights of our trip for sure and we leave with not only wonderful memories, but quite likely with FLEAS that we picked up from the grubby carpets inside all the churches! *Stub<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0-NAXQzBHYvqgnTnZKEr56dczq0qAHDQbewMUNgpxes48RIZI0mvC2bBcJhLIlVUtg-rm8CnostEuqxWRRpKxXf7F1rP6971Yv15_cJr22mH6nyxCO-gd35ATTxqOiRTrAFgfuA/s1600/carved.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0-NAXQzBHYvqgnTnZKEr56dczq0qAHDQbewMUNgpxes48RIZI0mvC2bBcJhLIlVUtg-rm8CnostEuqxWRRpKxXf7F1rP6971Yv15_cJr22mH6nyxCO-gd35ATTxqOiRTrAFgfuA/s320/carved.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Amanuel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHGpUCWh0X9fQUDerjXKdwFZkHVGPmxdsUvZbzvcAdEclY1Q-K-Sy3IFFaGMof_X07-ozNiN_JCC6LKw5ymHxD-e4WDI2rhFGpdxNdRJTPmOrUdIiGKSGYOErV4vVe3mgq3E22w/s1600/greek.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHGpUCWh0X9fQUDerjXKdwFZkHVGPmxdsUvZbzvcAdEclY1Q-K-Sy3IFFaGMof_X07-ozNiN_JCC6LKw5ymHxD-e4WDI2rhFGpdxNdRJTPmOrUdIiGKSGYOErV4vVe3mgq3E22w/s320/greek.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet Medhane Alem<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUV95pSh3KJ0X-tXqcI8igYRLvyB0_lLkhb-czPQeUpa02c51cpPdz6uLTj3mozKq_sEFQGJk4WtmssZWsBQp9cAzS0BczjVIXdzq8KIddc7IIu_fJ6TVoCbZ1OME9G1I-S2xjQ/s1600/hobbitts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUV95pSh3KJ0X-tXqcI8igYRLvyB0_lLkhb-czPQeUpa02c51cpPdz6uLTj3mozKq_sEFQGJk4WtmssZWsBQp9cAzS0BczjVIXdzq8KIddc7IIu_fJ6TVoCbZ1OME9G1I-S2xjQ/s320/hobbitts.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hobbitt Houses??</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJx4q997GsHCPNxUaw0ss4wsWVFCcS9S4Msj43l2v1QSkY_RrLVgoLAx7b3RaeSkPmGvcWc2XEhwDuyn_Wr439yL_VIiSxTcsGQUwlOkwuAc34O4oGBN4louCN694qKP-CfsorOg/s1600/locals.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJx4q997GsHCPNxUaw0ss4wsWVFCcS9S4Msj43l2v1QSkY_RrLVgoLAx7b3RaeSkPmGvcWc2XEhwDuyn_Wr439yL_VIiSxTcsGQUwlOkwuAc34O4oGBN4louCN694qKP-CfsorOg/s320/locals.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local Characters<br />
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Lalibela, Ethiopia12.03114 39.04473112.01561 39.024989999999995 12.04667 39.064472tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-72763544523114376972012-05-29T07:42:00.000-07:002012-06-29T07:55:50.119-07:00I Love Lucy, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629985916520/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Ethiopia, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwS24JBRNJ9IGaUYCotkrkHAJDT02RNGX5So27nYIeMR2qpVjXHWhnghzRrIyl4j11N4pAarRIArTlOtbcFCMwJUjgdRg0gXY9LClIdJB8zuLLZ7U6myHszVI16kNaru1sEnGgQ/s1600/national.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVwS24JBRNJ9IGaUYCotkrkHAJDT02RNGX5So27nYIeMR2qpVjXHWhnghzRrIyl4j11N4pAarRIArTlOtbcFCMwJUjgdRg0gXY9LClIdJB8zuLLZ7U6myHszVI16kNaru1sEnGgQ/s320/national.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle at the National Cafe</td></tr>
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We arrived in Addis Ababa very excited not just to see a new country (especially as we'd heard lots of good things about Ethiopia ), but also to see our last country of Africa. Before we left Kenya we tried to do some online research ahead of time (quite unusual for us) and discovered that internal flights in Ethiopia were quite expensive - more than we were hoping. We will soon be back in England in just two weeks' time, and because we do only have two weeks and the distances are so great (buses take 1 to 2 days to some places!), flying across Ethiopia would be the way to make the most of our time. The Addis Ethiopia Air office was not far from our guesthouse and we decided to see if there were any deals to be had. Well, we were in luck: daily flights around the country are about $40 to $65! But you have to buy tickets from inside the country to get that great price. That would save us some time. What an uplifting start! We could heave a sigh of relief and now continue to enjoy our first day in Addis.<br />
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We even managed to find an amazing local cafe, across from the airline office, that would be our mainstay for our time in Addis. National Cafe was our introduction to what we would find out was <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eating Bozena Shero with Injera</td></tr>
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fabulous local foods.... and plenty of it at that! I would think that most "Westerners" impression of Ethiopia is that it is a desolate place with major famine and hardly any agriculture. That is far from the truth, because we found it to be a rather green, crop producing country, the food was delicious, and most times, we couldn't eat all that was served to us - very plentiful. On our first trip to National Cafe, we basically looked around the restaurant, pointed at plates and asked for those items. This would be our first taste of a staple food called injera, which is basically a massive pancake with the consistency of tripe, and it is fermented a few days, so that the taste is a little sour. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I didn't mind it - Michelle, on the other hand was not too fond of the texture or taste. <br />
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Many countries in Africa claim to be the "Cradle of Mankind" but the reality is, Ethiopia is where it's at! In 1974, Australapithecus Afarensis, or 'Lucy' as she is more familiarly known ('Lucy in the sky with Diamonds' was playing at the camp when she was found) was one of the first bipedal hominid (upright walking and human-like) fossils to be found. 3.2 million years old and pint-sized at 3 and a bit feet tall, Lucy was one of the major pieces to one of the most important puzzles to mankind - our evolutionary origins. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle and Lucy</td></tr>
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The casts of the several hundred pieces of bone representing about 40% of her skeleton is housed at the National Museum. She is significant because her skeleton shows evidence of small skull capacity similar to apes, and signs of upright walking akin to that of humans, providing evidence supporting the view that bipedalism preceded increase in brain size in human evolution. We took local transport to the musuem, and were surprised when the lady who showed us which minibus to take, actually paid for our fare. Little things, but it sure shows the nature of the Ethiopian people. Lucy was the main attraction, but the rest of the National Museum was interesting, but a lot of reading. <br />
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The former palace of the Emperor Haile Selassie is at the University of Addis Ababa, and is now the site of the Ethnological Museum which we had time to visit. A super interesting and colourful museum, it captures the heritage of the past and traditional art and culture of Ethiopia's many tribes and cultures. It describes the different stages of life viewed and experienced by over 80 language ethnic groups! It also still houses the Emperor's original bedroom where he slept for 10 years. Haile Selassie was Emperor of Ethiopia from 1930 until the abolition of the monarchy in 1974. As Emperor he was the head of state and government, with ultimate executive, judicial and legislative power. He endured the war and occupation by Italy for 5 years from 1935 when Mussolini's Fascist regime was keen to provide a <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0zPHylkhj5ksMMssM64OYwJP105jhFe-RJpysl4WX0Elt0gdlyuslRoCNe7hs0i-tu5Mr9h0lGC3Nu3cMkRmjHCjP6RQhy3NNsJRIvT2VuYNwB0b4YyUAa7BfThJbvBVbanh_w/s1600/haile+room.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk0zPHylkhj5ksMMssM64OYwJP105jhFe-RJpysl4WX0Elt0gdlyuslRoCNe7hs0i-tu5Mr9h0lGC3Nu3cMkRmjHCjP6RQhy3NNsJRIvT2VuYNwB0b4YyUAa7BfThJbvBVbanh_w/s320/haile+room.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emperor Haile Selassie's bedroom</td></tr>
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bridge between it's occupation of neighbouring countries, Eritrea and Somaliland, and to avenge its defeat suffered in the First Italo-Abyssinian War (1895 to 1896). Haile Selassie was the heir to a dynasty that traced its origins to the 13th century, and from there apparently back to King Solomon and Queen Makeda, better known as the Queen of Sheba. As his real name is Ras Tafari Makonnen, Haile Selassie is revered as the returned messiah among the Rastafari movement. The stuff you learn!<br />
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The museum was a short walk up the road from the National Museum, and on our walk we shocked to see the amount of beggars along the road. It seemed like they were all waiting outside the church, as a ceremony was just finishing, and hoping to take advantage of the worshippers good hearts. Later, we returned to our guesthouse called Wim's Holland House. It was a funky place with a nice, helpful staff (especially Mimi), and some other friendly Dutch travelers all using different methods to travel Cape Town to Cairo. * Mush/Stub</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Addis Ababa, Ethiopia9.022736 38.7467998.8972785 38.588870500000006 9.1481935 38.9047275tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-23405017259786090732012-05-27T10:38:00.000-07:002012-06-15T08:45:22.656-07:00The Garbage Dump of Mombasa, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mombasa on the harbour</td></tr>
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Dirty, garbage everywhere and scruffy streets - that was our first impression of Mombasa upon our arrival by train, and when we arrived back from Tiwi, the second impression seemed to be more of the same. Old Mombasa could have some great character, along the lines of Zanzibar, and Lamu (that we never made it to) but the streets are a mess, and even in the main Government Square, an area that the official guided Mombasa walk directs you through, there were piles of garbage, a couple of smelly skips/garbage containers with stray cats eating scraps, and general mess everywhere. Great impressions for the main tourist trail. I guess we were seeing the 'real' Mombasa. <br />
Getting in to Mombasa this time was great. Zoltan gave us a great ride from Tiwi, right in to Mombasa, and we quickly walked to a recommended hotel nearby. It's nice when it's easy. So, we had one afternoon, and the next morning to tour Mombasa. We decided to check out the old town in the afternoon, and leave the Mombasa highlight Fort Jesus for the following morning.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Tusks - Mombasa</td></tr>
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Mombasa occupies an important role on the coast. It is the largest port in Eastern Africa, and supplies many interior countries with goods from far and wide. It also has many historical importances. Holding an important location, it was razed to the ground many times, thus forcing the Portuguese to build a stronghold - Fort Jesus - in 1593. Then it became even more of a target, and changed hands many times over the centuries. It was not only Europeans that held Mombasa, but also, after a 33 month siege, the Omani's moved in for than 170 years between 1698 and 1870. This is where it's Muslim and Swahili culture come from, similar to Lamu in the North.<br />
It appears that the Swahili culture is slowly being fazed out, and after speaking with a few people in the old town, it sounds like the locals are being squeezed out and the new occupants don't really care about traditions or, apparently, the appearance of the old town. It could be so nice, but is not. Maybe one day UNESCO will move in??<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Garbage in Government Square<br />
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In our brief stop, we did see 'The Tusks'. An interesting looking sculpture over the road, but on close up viewing, is not a solid sculpture, but a metal frame which looks far better from afar!! The harbour was quite scenic, but there was lots of construction on the far banks. The old Fort Jesus did not disappoint however. Heading in the high walls, the interior definitely had some colour and character. We enjoyed walking around the ramparts, and even eating breakfast in a corner watchtower, overlooking the sea. You can walk down the Passage of the Arches, which is an exceptionally deep stairway built from the centre of the courtyard, steeply down towards the sea under the main wall. <br />
So, a brief stop in Mombasa was all we really needed, and we caught a taxi out to the airport, past the lovely garbage dumps with the flies and little shacks on top, and off to start our journey home. A few monkeys were running around the airport, which was a surprising treat, and a nice parting gift from Kenya. *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fort Jesus, Mombasa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michelle inside Fort Jesus</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1877040878"></span><span id="goog_1877040879"></span></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Mombasa, Kenya-4.0434771 39.6682065-4.1701900999999992 39.510278 -3.9167640999999995 39.826134999999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-85893065446159124292012-05-26T10:16:00.000-07:002012-06-10T13:28:21.067-07:00Beach Boys and Beach Braais, Watamu and Tiwi Beach, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We had to make a decision getting off the train…. do we head North or South along the coast?? We had recommendations for both, and decided we liked the sound of Watamu, as it not only had beach, it also had some ancient sights around. The usual hassles abound, but we shrug them off and are <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiwi Beach with our tent on the right<br />
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Watamu bound. Upon arrival in Watamu, not only do the heavens open and the rain hammers down on us, but we are approached by many a beach 'boy' offering us places to stay, show us around, the lot..... Always be leery of these guys, because there is always a hidden agenda. So, we brushed them off as best we could, sometimes getting a little angry with them and telling them to leave us alone. They even seem to have a routine here - good beach 'boy', bad beach 'boy' - in which one hassles us, and the other eventually tells him to leave us alone.... only to proceed to follow us as well and then do the same thing to us. The other thing I haven't mentioned is that the town seemed to be in a state of closure. Every shop, every hotel, every restaurant seemed to be closed. Now I know it is low season, but can the town really 'close'??? This one seems to. So, we hurried into the first open hotel we saw, sopping wet, and trying to get away from the beach boys. Not only did we have the beach boy hassle (and it truly made us feel unsafe), we also had the issue of where we would eat (because then all the beach boys would follow us ... and in the dark), and what we would do in town, since we seemed to be the only tourists there. <br /><br />In the end, the decision was easy, and we got on the next matatu out of town, with the beach boys giving us rude hand gestures, and telling us to get lost because we hadn't trusted them. Hakuna Matata they say ('no problem') Yeah right.... we are not new to this, and they think we are stupid!! Best move was to get out of the possibly bad situation, and the only place we could head to before dark was Malindi, about an hour or so North. <br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marco, Martin, Dorette, Guillaume, Hannah having a braai<br />
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In Malindi, our tuk-tuk guy took us to the wrong place, but luckily on the way into town, we bumped into Sheila and Micheal from the train. Unfortunately very bad timing, as Sheila was in a panic as her important bag was missing with passports, money, etc. Luckily, we heard later that she found it - phew!! It was a pretty much a nothing night in Malinda. We walked the coast, out on the jetty, and saw the scrubby beach. The only thing of note was the large, white monument that Vasco de Gama had built in the 1500's, to help with navigation.<br /><br />After speaking with Dorette and Guillaume by phone, they recommended we join them at Tiwi Beach as it was really nice. So, early in the morning, we headed back through Mombasa, across the ferry and eventually to the end of the dirt road to Tiwi. Guillaume was nice enough to shuttle both of us to the beach on the IDoAfrica piki-piki because he could tell we were frustrated and pissed off. <br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our campsite at Tiwi Beach<br />
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And we were so glad we came. We set up our tent on the beautiful white sand beach, looking out to the blue waters of the Indian Ocean once again. With Dorette and Guillaume who were our awesome beach neighbours, we had some great beach braais, with some delicious home cooked grub. Day one was sirloin, and day two was prawns!! Followed up by drinks around the campfire on the beach, and chilling at the waters edge under the stars having some great chats with a bottle of gin and another of rum.<br />Apparently, this left Guillaume with a pretty bad head the next day (he was babalas). He had some resume/CV work to do the next day, so I hitched a piki-piki ride with him in to Diani, but I think he struggled to get anything of substance done. On our ride home, we hit the heavy rains, and I got a taste of piki-piki travel with the elements. <br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silly beach photos with Dorette and Guillaume<br />
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It was a quick couple of days, but we really enjoyed their company and wish them the best on the rest of www.idoafrica.com to Egypt. We were also sad to leave, because we could have stayed for a week, but had booked a flight. A difference here too, was that although there were beach boys, they were part of an association, and really didn't hassle us much at all. It was a great last stop. We took a few silly beach pose photos, and then were off to Mombasa with another camper Zoltan, who happened to be going to the airport to pick up a friend. Good luck Dorette and Guillaume - we hope you make and your piki-piki make it!! *Stub<br />
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Rte to BAT Tiwi Cottages, Kenya-4.2423341924819109 39.603652954101562-4.3056751924819112 39.524688954101563 -4.1789931924819106 39.682616954101562tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-60725427641885540502012-05-24T10:12:00.000-07:002012-06-08T03:55:28.793-07:00An African Classic - Nairobi to Mombasa Train, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629902852714/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Kenya, Click Here</a><br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nairobi Railway Station in all it's glory</td></tr>
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We've only taken a couple of trains on our travels through Africa, but one that is considered one of the great train journeys of Africa is the Nairobi-Mombasa Train. Nairobi is at 5453ft (1662m) above sea level and travels overnight down to Mombasa at 18ft (5.5m). The British built rail lines through Eastern Africa (Kenya and Tanzania) to open up trade with Central Africa. <br />
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Derek was extremely envious of us doing this train journey as he has very fond memories of taking the train himself as a boy with his parents, and now would like to take his own family on the same adventure. On Derek's recommendation we arrived late afternoon to hang out on the platform and observe the goings-on. The station was busy with commuters, but was also undergoing renovations so was not completely open and up and running, but you could tell that it had once had some class. As we waited, we chatted to some other train travellers, and to a guy, Daniel, selling bits and bobs at a table on the platform. Daniel was very happy showing his collection of coins and money from around Africa. Martin in turn showed him his Zimbabwe 10 trillion dollar note. From his reaction, I think that made Daniel's day!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squeezing through the tight hallways</td></tr>
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No longer a steam train (sorry, Derek), it was still exciting when our engine was finally attached: our departure was getting closer and closer. Finally it was all aboard and we squeezed through the narrow passage-way to our cabin. We had bought first class tickets since mixed genders are not allowed in second class (unless you purchase all four beds) and third class is wooden seating only - which we did not consider as fun for a 15 hour overnight journey! So our two berth compartment was cosy and even had a working washbasin and wardrobe. <br />
<br />
The carriage staff had just enough time to introduce themselves when suddenly we were off bang on 7pm! (not like our Mbeya to Dar Es Salaam train which departed more than 24 hours late!). Pulling pole-pole out of the station we left Nairobi behind. Almost immediately, the bell for evening dinner started ringing. Dinner was in a nice old-fashioned dining car almost like a setting out of an Agatha Christie, and I half expected Hercule Poirot to mysteriously enter through the carriage door at any second stroking his moustache. We were treated to quite a colonial experience at the small tables cluttered with their three course meal settings. The mediocre food of rice, meat and veg was even served silver-service style by uniformed waiters. Classy for us!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our snazzy First Class cabin</td></tr>
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We sat for dinner with the fellow travellers that we had briefly met/seen on the platform. Sheila and Micheal were both Canadian, Josh from the UK, and Dorette and Guillaume from South Africa. We shared their 'Konyagi', a toxic spirit (liquor) that was tolerable with Sprite. We swapped travel stories: Sheila and Micheal volunteers at an orphanage, Josh traveling from England, and Dorette and Guillaume travelling from South Africa all the way to Egypt on their piki-piki (Chinese-made motorbike)! As the night wore on, Guillaume got more and more goofy. At one stop, he made us all jump by banging on our outside window - I mean, the train hadn't even stopped yet, so it really surprised us to see him outside. It was a fun evening though, and it wasn't until 11.30 that we all retired to our cabins. <br />
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While we had been at dinner our cabin had been turned down. The cabin staff had made up our beds complete with sheets and blanket. Super cosy. Even though it was exciting to be on such a classic adventure speeding into the night (in relative safety and comfort) across the hills and plains of Kenya, the lilting rhythm of the train was surprisingly smooth and we soon fell asleep. <br />
<br />
I awoke just before dawn and lay gazing out the window at the passing red, flat landscape. The <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheila, Michael, Guillaume, Dorette, Martin and Josh in dining car</td></tr>
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commonplace round mud shacks with their grass roofs were scattered across the plains. Once in a while there would be a domed mud structure which was more unusual. As we headed east I saw the occasional white frilly mosque with minaret, and even a homestead with a small herd of camels in the yard - both signs that we were getting closer to our destination on the arabic Swahili coast. It had been a fairly good night's sleep and Martin said he had felt a lot safer in his bunk with webbing to hold him in if necessary - unlike our Mbeya to Dar Es Salaam train which only had low metal bar for him to cling to! On the other side of the train the sun was rising and we rose to watch the soft light warm up the landscape. <br />
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Soon after, the train staff walked up and down the corridor dinging the bell, and in various states of sleep and hangover (Guillaume didn't even appear!), the handful of first class passengers headed to <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our View entering Mombasa</td></tr>
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the dining car for a not too fancy breakfast. A couple of hours later we were passing larger towns and eventually the views became more and more busy and built-up. We were coming into Mombasa. Forgotten were the open plains as we passed the industrial outskirts with its pungent, toxic dumps. We were horrified to see people actually living on the huge mountains of rubbish in shacks made out of anything they could find! Awful! And then hundreds of flies invaded our train through the open windows!! A charming welcome to Mombasa!<br />
<br />
The arrival into Mombasa was not a pretty one for sure, but it was 10am and we were on time! I think the Mombasa train may have changed a little since Derek's time, but we found it a charming and eclectic adventure. We were glad we had done this classic journey and had met some great people who we would yet see again. We said our goodbyes and watched Dorette and Guillaume pack up their gear onto the piki-piki, before wandering off into old Mombasa. * Mush<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJwIgiHpH3iqwsMlwXER-7cTb3u33SrKXpZeBoeoBsfDeQezoCmPfruhryAKb-cOPBTdNNXYy7s4_4i941ofUBKptb1rxueRoOdup9YY1T69Ny9TitX0TKA2qFXYRaRQIZBwaNg/s1600/Guillaume+and+Dorette+Packing+the+Bike+for+IDoAfrica,+Mombasa+Train+Station,+Kenya.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJwIgiHpH3iqwsMlwXER-7cTb3u33SrKXpZeBoeoBsfDeQezoCmPfruhryAKb-cOPBTdNNXYy7s4_4i941ofUBKptb1rxueRoOdup9YY1T69Ny9TitX0TKA2qFXYRaRQIZBwaNg/s320/Guillaume+and+Dorette+Packing+the+Bike+for+IDoAfrica,+Mombasa+Train+Station,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guillaume and Dorette packing up the Piki-Piki for IDoAfrica</td></tr>
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</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Mombasa, Kenya-4.0434771 39.6682065-4.1701900999999992 39.510278 -3.9167640999999995 39.826134999999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-23200763450317360222012-05-21T12:09:00.000-07:002012-06-08T03:30:18.553-07:00Mixing with the Maasai in the Maasai Mara, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629902852714/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Kenya, Click Here</a><br />
<br />
We had been to soooo many other National Parks on this adventure, how
could we miss out the amazing Maasai Mara in South-Western Kenya! Sure,
the price would be high, but the thoughts of what we might see overcame
the price issue. Besides, this could theoretically be our last chance
at animals and game drives on our trip. And when would we next be back
in Africa? Why not!!!<br />
<br />
The Maasai people had first migrated to this part of Africa from the
Sudan. Once the British gazetted the Maasai Mara National Reserve in
the 60's, the Maasai people were displaced and over time more and more
of their land was lost to the reserve. One of Africa's continuing
struggles is juggling the
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topi antelope and some beautiful clouds<br />
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needs of the people - land to live off to grow crops and graze cattle,
but also to preserve wilderness for endangered wildlife and for them to
live in safety.<br />
<br />
The Safari group that we joined were mostly made up of Americans: Angela
and Kristin from California, Wayne from Texas, and one South Korean
'Gabbi', in a 4WD mini-van driven by our relaxed guide Simon. Derek was
especially jealous of us going to the Mara, as it is one of his
favourite parts of Kenya. Too bad we couldn't visit with them, our new
Nairobi 'family'!! <br />
<br />
The journey to the Maasai Mara was a bit of an adventure. We drove down
into the Rift Valley (the same way we had gone to Naivasha), past
Longonot and Susua volcanoes. Bumpy dirt roads, and many washed out
from recent rains and some areas still flooded out. We had to tip a
couple of local Maasai for digging out a section of road so that we
could pass! <br />
<br />
Quickly checking in to our permanent tented accommodation, Rhino Camp,
we hurried back out to start an evening game drive in the park.
Surprisingly, we had already seen quite a lot of game on the drive to
the Mara itself, but nothing was quite like being in the Mara. After we
got our early fix of antelope, zebra, wildebeest, gazelles (for some in
our group this was their first safari), we heard on the CB radio about a
leopard sighting. I managed to spot this leopard lying up in a tree,
and we
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big buffalo at sunset light in the grasslands<br />
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watched for quite sometime, hoping it would do more than just twitch its
tail once in awhile! We convinced the group that this was quite a RARE
experience, and to stay longer to watch. In our many months in this
part of Africa, we had only spotted three leopards, and two were not
very clear sightings. This was special for us, and we wanted to
experience it for longer!<br />
<br />
Some more game on the open plains, but the beauty of the scenery was
stunning. Rolling hills of grasslands, dotted with some acacia, and all
in the glowing light of sunset. We were graced with a close up
sighting of three male lions resting in the grasses, and our vehicle was
able to drive around them quite close. They barely raised an eyebrow!
Little did we know at the time, these would be the only lion we would
see on our three drives in to the park. Peculiar, as the Mara is well
known for it's large lion population. Because of this late sighting, we
were about 20 minutes late leaving the park, and could conceivably be
fined, but Simon, quick on his feet, gave a story about getting stuck in
mud and having to be towed out……sneaky! <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our fabulous leopard in the tree<br />
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We enjoyed a mediocre dinner of the usual local meat and bone stew, rice
and decimated bland veg with two other groups of safari-ers. Good
conversation, and good laughs, especially about Kristin, (being away
from her baby) having to pump her breast milk. We all decided that the
noise the pump made was identical to a wildebeest's grunt!!! S2uddenly
during dinner Michelle started experiencing stomach pains, then feeling
faint, and before I knew it, her eyes rolled back into her head, arms
began shaking, and she passed-out briefly. Not falling to the floor,
she was OK, but I had some serious concerns. Walking her to the tent,
she felt much better after lying down, but I feared that she was quite
ill, or in the least her following day would be lost.<br />
<br />
Thankfully, a miraculous recovery for Michelle, and we were up earlier
than expected as the other groups left for a sunrise drive. Staying in
tents, I don't think others realize how much sound travels and easily
penetrates mesh! Michelle felt fine, and we were off on an all-day
safari deeper into the park. Similar animals greeted us at the gate,
but we went straight in search of our leopard again. Sure enough, I
spotted him in the neighbouring 'comfy' tree, but this time we were able
to get much closer thanks to Simon turning his minivan into a 4x4!
Again we watched for a good length of time, but still no action.
Amazing patterns on his coat though, and we were the only ones there
watching in peace.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The storm-a-brewing<br />
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In our search for more big cats, we heard on the radio of a possible
cheetah sighting. In technical game-speak the word 'cheetah' is not
pluralised. Once again, I had the eagle-eyes, and found them under a
tiny little tree - the only shade around for a long distance. Two
cheetah, just occasionally poking their heads up, and us only being able
to see the outline of the heads through the grasses. Then, just as a
couple other vehicles pulled up, Simon gave us a great surprise.
Apparently, he had called one of the head rangers, and had been given
permission to drive off-road close to the cheetah. We excitedly circled
within about 20 feet of them, snapping off some photos quickly. They
are so elegant, and sleek looking - beautiful creatures. I would love
to see them run at speed!! After a quick couple of minutes with the
cheetah, we gleefully returned to the road, where we passed the other
vehicles who were probably wondering why they had not been allowed to
get that close - lucky us indeed!<br />
<br />
Not too much wildlife, but stunning vistas greeted us on our way to the
Mara River. This is the sight of THE Great Migration, where thousands of
wildebeest struggle across the river on their way North or South in
search of water and lush food between the Mara and neighbouring
Serengeti following the raining seasons. Many don't survive the
perilous journey, dying from various causes, one such being the
crocodiles that line the shore awaiting the wildebeests' arrival. In
the river, the hippos seemed to be doing some rafting and frolicking of
their own and drifting downstream. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi91L2-VDHskrWerpKXNGaDZZcZvmzKZHrr16rJbH790Xd6U37PvN6Bnk2M8KZ_V6luIaXqBlSeBMu_wfD91wO5hb1S4wsUWLKz1LmAZD7dqmPxzPG5fpckJ0xMhH64cCyTaypw0g/s1600/Playful+Bat-Eared+Foxes+at+Sunset,+Masai+Mara,+Kenya.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi91L2-VDHskrWerpKXNGaDZZcZvmzKZHrr16rJbH790Xd6U37PvN6Bnk2M8KZ_V6luIaXqBlSeBMu_wfD91wO5hb1S4wsUWLKz1LmAZD7dqmPxzPG5fpckJ0xMhH64cCyTaypw0g/s320/Playful+Bat-Eared+Foxes+at+Sunset,+Masai+Mara,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New for us - Bat Eared Foxes<br />
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On the drive back through the park, the weather started changing. It
was amazing looking up at the sky and seeing a vertical line separating
blue sky, from grey, gloomy rain clouds. Bizarre skies, and then the
rains hit, and hit hard. Dirt roads turned to rivers, and Simon had to
use all his driving skills to keep the van on the road. As quickly as
the storm came, it passed, and we popped up the viewing-top again to
continue our game watching. It's pretty amazing that although we have
done so many drives, we still see something new each time. This time,
we found two groups of bat-eared foxes. Super large ears to go with
their small bodies - yet another highlight of the day for Michelle and
I. Plenty of elephants in the park, and lots of tiny little babies
hiding behind mums' flanks. We never get tired of seeing them. The
only animal missing was the rhinoceros - apparently the hardest to find
in the Mara. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKLNDwPpQI8cZ-FypafWH4-dCj22CW33dFj5JCKW_SVg-5RLrRCP0j9bdqcbe3SRtyGVBJ9MyCWwGn5nJw7yWWZ6PkzIhzgkJeYNm7T-FianAEUVP5NyX8AeZallX4S7qrXcEMQ/s1600/maasai.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRKLNDwPpQI8cZ-FypafWH4-dCj22CW33dFj5JCKW_SVg-5RLrRCP0j9bdqcbe3SRtyGVBJ9MyCWwGn5nJw7yWWZ6PkzIhzgkJeYNm7T-FianAEUVP5NyX8AeZallX4S7qrXcEMQ/s320/maasai.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martin hanging with the local Maasai men<br />
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Back at camp and in the village of Oloolomutia, we saw mostly male
Maasai, and they were dressed in their checked shuka (blanket), and
carried a ball-ended heavy wooden club. The Maasai were really nice
guys, and some of them had good English. On closer inspection, we
noticed that many have elongated ear lobes with the lower bit of
cartilage cut out, stretching what's left of the ear lobe over time
(sometimes hooking the loop over the top of their ears). They also have
burn mark tattoos on their bodies, which are also considered a form of
beautification. An American traveler at camp - Graysen - actually
visited with a local family and got the burn tattoo himself on top of
the local mountain. Graysen was quite a character who was attending UNC
in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. He was trying to visit as many tribes
as he could in the Kenya/Ethiopia area to learn more about their culture
and traditions. The Maasai in particular are known as pastoralists and
are dependant on their livestock for many things. Blood and milk are a
mainstay of their diet, and at the age of 14, males become warriors and
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFxNHonaBA1xecRuwY58HDmVgJQ744POHmkfP_K11BwIdiT5dTnfvAaXzqzpHGDtmIr7eOJVTWdYuxKPStdfbPyQzoWLP-Nn-_srFWX4e8riiUxkRDmXmuTDVkjsWayy6zqfyDw/s1600/Masai,+Masai+Mara,+Kenya.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRFxNHonaBA1xecRuwY58HDmVgJQ744POHmkfP_K11BwIdiT5dTnfvAaXzqzpHGDtmIr7eOJVTWdYuxKPStdfbPyQzoWLP-Nn-_srFWX4e8riiUxkRDmXmuTDVkjsWayy6zqfyDw/s320/Masai,+Masai+Mara,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Local Maasai men<br />
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build a small livestock camp of their own after their circumcision
ceremony. They can live alone for up to 8 years before they return to
the village to marry. They are also very athletic and are famous for
their 'jumping', which looks almost effortless, as they reach great
heights. The villages are also built in a circular pattern, and often
circled by spiky acacia bushes to keep cattle protected in the middle,
and predators out. <br />
<br />
On the third day, it was back to Nairobi for us. Getting dropped off at
Dianna and Derek's again, we said goodbye to the crew, and excitedly
recounted our trip to the envious Dianna and Derek. We followed this
with a dinner party with a lovely couple they knew, and Dianna had
organized tacos and fajitas for dinner. One more treat for us - Mexican
food - and it was delicious!! *Stub</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Maasai Mara National Reserve, Kenya-1.5819814 35.2451002-2.0898994 34.6133862 -1.0740634 35.876814200000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-37137930505544727802012-05-19T12:00:00.000-07:002012-06-04T13:01:39.039-07:00A Little Too Much Tongue - Naivasha and Karen, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629902852714/" target="_blank">To See Our Kenyan Photos, Click Here</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0iJ4u1iw1JunsLhsV4cnknZHEHcF9WJXYEOCUN_jLs5jmD2GPTQ76ps_71Dxy5raeurh_7FUcc72fRd4B35AIiBuuS8q4FXuUT_OGftMM3TNdvF5OO-cegnOnU-_oXQtjz-Y5A/s1600/Flamingo's+at+Lake+Oloiden,+Naivasha,+Kenya.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0iJ4u1iw1JunsLhsV4cnknZHEHcF9WJXYEOCUN_jLs5jmD2GPTQ76ps_71Dxy5raeurh_7FUcc72fRd4B35AIiBuuS8q4FXuUT_OGftMM3TNdvF5OO-cegnOnU-_oXQtjz-Y5A/s320/Flamingo's+at+Lake+Oloiden,+Naivasha,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thousands of Flamingoes at Lake Oloiden near Naivasha</td></tr>
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Lake Naivasha is about an hour and a half away by car from Nairobi. Thinking that a quick day trip was do-able, we headed out with Dianna on her way to work dropping us off at a matatu (mini-bus) stop bound for the region. Or so we thought! As we discovered, there was no matatu - at least not going from that location! After being advised by various reliable sources, but against our gut feeling, we caught a matatu in to Nairobi proper. At the terminus, our bus conductor who had promised to direct us towards our next leg, promptly forgot and started wandering off. Catching him just in time, he directed us part-way towards an express matatu: a 20 minute walk through Nairobi's unsavoury River St. district. Not long to wait though and finally we really were Naivasha-bound. We managed to walk through Nairobi unscathed - nice!! <br /><br />The main road coming down into Naivasha town was super-scenic with views over Africa's 8 million year old Great Rift Valley - the one and the same rift valley that we'd been in and out of in Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi, Uganda, and Malawi. The valley stretched as far as the eye could see (of course) and was beautiful with grassy plains, ochre soil and jagged peaks of the volcanic craters of Hell's Gate and Mt. Longonot National Parks. Just one more matatu to catch amongst the madness of Naivasha town, and we arrived at Camp Carnelly's situated at the lake's edge - approximately 6 hours after leaving the house that morning! All was good though: we had arrived gratefully safe. A good job that we had come prepared for an overnight stay though!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA2vxcbmZ0dGsogz9VrnqFMt4N-GsqtB3WciTa7ZxE9XnSRW1PdQtVUNcpdD0JxaQDcUMtB7LK8CD2bohso3nzuOVk4LxSl9CDkgVlL_V9ypNFSxyPCakOYIx6BtuL5ZEw29jwlg/s1600/ele.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA2vxcbmZ0dGsogz9VrnqFMt4N-GsqtB3WciTa7ZxE9XnSRW1PdQtVUNcpdD0JxaQDcUMtB7LK8CD2bohso3nzuOVk4LxSl9CDkgVlL_V9ypNFSxyPCakOYIx6BtuL5ZEw29jwlg/s320/ele.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ethan and Martin with a curious little trunk</td></tr>
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The shores of fresh water lake Naivasha fringed with papyrus and yellow barked acacias play host to many protected species including hippo, fish eagles, many aquatic birds, and antelope. Unfortunately, for the Masai tribe it also attracted many early colonial settlers. Historically the area was big on beef cattle, and fruit and veg production irrigated by the waters of the lake. Today, the $400 million-a-year flower industry is blooming and booming. Flowers picked here early morning are in Europe's auctions the same day! The downside of this success, of course, is the impact on the local environment - threatening the very survival of the source of the industry's creation - the lake. Pesticides and fertilizers seep into the lake reeking havoc on its ecosystem. Drawing water for irrigation also means the lake is receding too, to only 170 sq km. How well the 1995 conservation effort to protect the lake and it's wildlife is not clear. <br /><br />What we do know is that Lake Oloiden, a small crater lake snug up against Naivasha's southwest shore, is now home to Lesser Flamingos. Pretty cool, yes, but concerning, as it is probably an indication that its freshwater habitat is changing providing the right environment for the flamingos food source - Spirulina, a blue-green algae that grow only in very alkaline lakes. The algae's photosynthetic pigments give the birds their pink colour. <br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWYUkNfelnEDOQyr8iCj8HQoamoxaIPaCV2ompUjVA4-2YNvAEEbjuB8yfNLJzkuSKAYfOyFrpPWw73U_N8JRj5xD2DmD0usirH8b2zUEfPUDf1qPkR-DY4l6f7TFbU7HNB6mjxg/s1600/orphan.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWYUkNfelnEDOQyr8iCj8HQoamoxaIPaCV2ompUjVA4-2YNvAEEbjuB8yfNLJzkuSKAYfOyFrpPWw73U_N8JRj5xD2DmD0usirH8b2zUEfPUDf1qPkR-DY4l6f7TFbU7HNB6mjxg/s320/orphan.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The baby elephants leaving the feeding zone</td></tr>
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Riding both on the back of a single moto-taxi, we arrived at Oloiden lake. We didn't even need to take an expensive boat ride out to see the flamingos - they were right there wading in the shallows. It was like watching National Geographic channel but waaaaay better: triggering our senses with the stunning sea of pale pink rimming the edge, hearing loud squawking chatter, and, boy, not to mention the stench! Their plumage is pinkish white, some more pink than others and with wing coverts flecked with red. Compared to Greater Flamingos, they are smaller, more pink have more black on their filtering bills. They also eat shrimp. I found out that these birds live to 60 - 70 years old in captivity.<br /><br />We were held mesmerized by the flamingos for at least a couple of hours until the rains came down. An Australian / Kenyan couple rescued us from the downpour in their car dropping us off further down the road where we enjoyed good food at our neighbouring camp. Just before dark we headed to our own camp, and hung out all evening in the pretty cool bar/hang out areas. It was a pretty chilly evening chilling at Carnelly's, but we enjoyed the unique funky construction and chill-out areas choc-full with monster-sized comfy cushions. At bed time three hippo were lined up by the barb fence at the water's edge serenely chewing away.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcL9qSSK5ddwWIFjt67GzCSIu9iv_l5oWtd6J9FUKo6rDMdGs-og-7jzXZ0o59nrKS8hFZKgFcLo1SqU7K9LNuBgWiff380GYjhPwFlDPXUaGkU5gURxAodDpWezN_Y-5vMr1gkw/s1600/snog.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcL9qSSK5ddwWIFjt67GzCSIu9iv_l5oWtd6J9FUKo6rDMdGs-og-7jzXZ0o59nrKS8hFZKgFcLo1SqU7K9LNuBgWiff380GYjhPwFlDPXUaGkU5gURxAodDpWezN_Y-5vMr1gkw/s320/snog.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting some giraffe love from a Rothschild Giraffe</td></tr>
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Up before the sunrise, we had to be back in Nairobi by 10am to meet Dianna, Derek and the kids. On our way out, sitting in the bar were two white local Kenyans having coffee before heading out, themselves back to Nairobi. A quick hello and chat and we'd got ourselves a ride. Nice! What a blessing not to have to do those matatus at this time of day! And we had a sweet ride in the back of Grant's monster flatbed army truck! It was if anything, an unconventional ride, and a mode of transport we had not yet taken! We loved every minute sitting in our folding canvas chairs with sweeping views back at Mt. Longonot and the rift valley as we headed back up the escarpment and into Nairobi's suburbs. That was, until the final corner, where Grant took it with a little too much speed and we went flying sideways, smashing one of the chairs!<br /><br />We met Dianna and Derek in the suburb of Karen (named after Karen Blixen famous for being the author of "Out of Africa"). Being a Saturday we were looking forward to spending some time with them and our first stop was the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage where babies abandoned by <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDKc1tfD_99RlnSZ7tEqNBOaxItI6VL35zcAiHTXTd7yEHeCJDWi-iRfQWFQTJwmwRpqHqmDsFWj-0WRJhcQPJD0aL-y9lNRyYm4SZpXbvnkvH38D__-i4Q5gzKeG5EgxgNPmMw/s1600/derek.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYDKc1tfD_99RlnSZ7tEqNBOaxItI6VL35zcAiHTXTd7yEHeCJDWi-iRfQWFQTJwmwRpqHqmDsFWj-0WRJhcQPJD0aL-y9lNRyYm4SZpXbvnkvH38D__-i4Q5gzKeG5EgxgNPmMw/s320/derek.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too much tongue for Derek in this encounter</td></tr>
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dead or poached parents are rescued. They feed off baby formula milk and twice day it's very cute to watch them entwine their trunks around the big plastic bottles. They also enjoyed playing in the mud, slipping and sliding and pushing each other around. We learned that elephants can live between 50 and 70 years old. A lengthy process, these ones will be re-habituated back into the wild, and then if the elephant is happy and is accepted into its new herd it will make decide to stay. It was really cool watching the kids interact with the baby elephants, and we thoroughly enjoyed their little trunks curiously reaching out to us, inviting us to stroke them!<br /><br />The Langata Giraffe Centre is a refuge for endangered Rothschild's giraffes and the main attraction here is that you can feed them. You get a real up close and personal look at the size of their heads, their beautiful eyes, and the interesting furry horns on top of their heads. If you're like Martin and Derek, you can get some love too - they'll kiss you for their nubbins of grub. The Rothschild's are a pretty giraffe with an ivy-leaf coat pattern, quite different from other giraffe we had seen throughout Africa (there are about 7 species of giraffe). What made us laugh is their huge grey tongues and the boys certainly got some very sloppy kisses with far too much tongue! Eeeeww! * Mush</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Mvuke Path, Kenya-0.82669250619245072 36.32080078125-1.0807255061924508 36.00494378125 -0.57265950619245065 36.63665778125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-30223784540617003302012-05-18T09:39:00.000-07:002012-06-03T09:50:25.475-07:00Spoilt By Dianna and Derek in Nairobi, Kenya<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629902852714/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Kenya, Click Here</a><br />
<br />
As happens with all good plans and ideas - our plan to take the night bus from Sipi to Nairobi was knocked on the head as the bus was fully booked, even though we had been told there would be plenty of space. We piece-mealed our way to the border and were surprised to have our farewell out of Uganda just as pleasant as our welcome with another jolly official at the immigration office. <br />
<br />
Better still, we walked across the border into Kenya to find another nice, relaxed official there too. As the entry process continued the official got more and more chatty, but instead of exchanging pleasantries, the conversation turned to cancer (sparked by the professional information written on my entry card). He was particularly interested in prostate cancer and asked about symptoms and getting checked etc. I skirted around the issue a little, but there was no way of avoiding, of course, the easiest way to check for prostate cancer (apart from blood tests) - an enlarged prostate! It was probably our most entertaining border conversation yet! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgohNVP6qAdIMli6aH6YaqetCjFIeAJcy0vdHJN8Gg-UB4s4lA0SKziNV69WOW5Q5W218ePVYc7fnHa4HDLGi_wq4UPN-BgSjbaedRgL5DPwEDrJc9FaKTwkbFTjFLBwf-h653x3Q/s1600/Dianna+and+Derek%27s+House+-+Our+Accomodation+-+in+Westlands,+Nairobi,+Kenya.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgohNVP6qAdIMli6aH6YaqetCjFIeAJcy0vdHJN8Gg-UB4s4lA0SKziNV69WOW5Q5W218ePVYc7fnHa4HDLGi_wq4UPN-BgSjbaedRgL5DPwEDrJc9FaKTwkbFTjFLBwf-h653x3Q/s320/Dianna+and+Derek%27s+House+-+Our+Accomodation+-+in+Westlands,+Nairobi,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dianna and Derek's Lovely House</td></tr>
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Being almost dark at this point we planned to look for a place to stay, but curious, we asked the official if there were buses to Nairobi at this time. He made a call, and yes there was a night bus; better yet, his friend would greet us. 500m down the road, sure enough, his friend did greet us and directed us to the right ticket office. Nice! <br />
With an hour before the bus would leave at 8pm, there was just enough time for some quick, and surprisingly delicious, chicken and chips. The thankfully uneventful bus journey was supposed to plonk us at Nairobi 's main bus station early in the morning in the dark. Extremely reluctant to arrive at the notoriously treacherous and shady bus station, plus at such a dodgy time of day, we opted to get off the bus early and land ourselves in the relative safety of the suburbs - close to Westlands where Martin's friend Dianna Kopansky and her family lived. Once the sun came up we took a taxi to her house and landed on them in full swing of breakfast and readying for work and school. Normalcy. It was great! * Mush<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWx9oeJGB7m-fPhTrfIev1IvYvpNi4qwS_ghu32W_AqjCXBS8vPhQXXdGetGpUhwqaIJYsBfOag8H_u2_rIpB9_pM5npGNstUWi0F7hJCU_S-cHRH2oPtNXkKTyrvAOmU1-b7V9A/s1600/With+Old+Toronto+Friend,+Dianna,+in+Nairobi,+Kenya.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWx9oeJGB7m-fPhTrfIev1IvYvpNi4qwS_ghu32W_AqjCXBS8vPhQXXdGetGpUhwqaIJYsBfOag8H_u2_rIpB9_pM5npGNstUWi0F7hJCU_S-cHRH2oPtNXkKTyrvAOmU1-b7V9A/s320/With+Old+Toronto+Friend,+Dianna,+in+Nairobi,+Kenya.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Dianna Kopansky</td></tr>
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Back in High School, myself, and great friends Sacha and Colin worked at a Collegiate Sports Store in our local mall. The owner Ozzie, was married to Nancy, whose sister Dianna, did some work at the store at times, even though she didn't live in the area. We got to know Dianna, and it turned out that we both went to Queen's University, although Dianna started a year after me. We had some great times at university, but we had not seen each other since. Good old Facebook got us back in touch, and I found out she was in Nairobi, and has been for about 11 years. She moved to Nairobi to work with the United Nations, and while there met her now husband Derek. Even without seeing each other in so long, she welcomed us to her house with open arms, and we thoroughly enjoyed catching up with her, and meeting her family. It was a great time staying with them, as we got along exceptionally well with Derek, and the kids were a treat to be around.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose, Michelle and Jane, with Ethan and Tessa</td></tr>
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So, what did we do in Nairobi, not much really - just relaxed and did some chores. We had the help of Jane, their lovely housekeeper, who took care of us well. We organized our immediate future by getting a drive into town by their driver Peter, who took us to the train station to buy our tickets to Mombasa, then took us to the hostels to organize a safari to the Maasai Mara. I tell you though, heading in to downtown Nairobi is an experience, and not for the best reasons. I have to say that I think the traffic in Nairobi is about the worst in all of Africa - nobody obeys any rules, and you have to just drive aggressive and shove your nose ahead of others. Put that together with the absolute worst roads of any big city we have seen in Africa, and it's a recipe for disaster, if not exceptionally long travel times. I mean, we drove down roads with car swallowing potholes, filled with water probably because the hole was so deep it hit the underground water table!!! And add to this the knowledge that Nairobi is nicknamed 'Nai-Robbery' by the locals, it made for an uncomfortable experience. Lock the doors and close all the windows tight as there are people everywhere. Our driver even told us that if you hit a person on the road (even though you travel so slowly), there will be a mob around your car and they will rob you blind. People even jump in front of the car on purpose!! No wonder most of the expats stay out in the suburbs!!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Derek with Tessa, Dianna with Ethan, Mush with Elephants</td></tr>
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We did have a lot of fun around the house, especially with the kids. They had a trampoline out back, and I exhausted myself jumping around with them. Turns out I was the first to complete a front flip on their tramp!! One other very cool experience in the back yard, was feeding the local bird of prey (Kite) flying around in the vicinity. They call him George, and we would throw pieces of meat up in the air and watch the incredible agility he had, changing direction and swooping in to catch the meat in mid air!! WOW!! <br />
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Dinner parties, fantastic food, Smirnoff Ice's, watching sports with Derek, movies with Dianna and the kids, shopping at really nice grocery stores with items we haven't seen in many months, and being well taken care of by everyone. We have fond memories of our time with 'family' in Nairobi!!! *Stub<br />
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<span id="goog_1958162632"></span><span id="goog_1958162633"></span></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Spring Valley, Nairobi, Kenya-1.2489092669940649 36.788406372070312-1.2806592669940648 36.748924372070313 -1.217159266994065 36.827888372070312tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-48215461662104532012-05-14T01:19:00.000-07:002012-05-30T08:53:53.360-07:00Soggy Sipi - Sipi Falls, Uganda<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629623299792/" target="_blank">To See Our Ugandan Photos, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of all 3 of Sipi Falls</td></tr>
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We have enjoyed traveling around by the Posta Bus, so hoped there was one leaving from Jinja in the morning. As luck would have it, there was, but this time we boarded and it was quite full, so the only free seats were at the back. Well, this turned out to be a problem since the road was so atrociously bumpy up to Mbale, that we constantly would bounce out of our seats, and then come down for a crash landing on the less than soft remainder of a cushion! It was a difficult ride for sure, and we were happy to disembark in Mbale where we quickly found a share taxi for the rest of the journey up to Sipi Falls in the foothills of the extinct volcano Mount Elgon, a massif that spans across the border to Kenya and to a lofty height of 4321m - making it the second highest in Uganda, and the 8th highest in Africa. Apparently, the surface area of the extinct volcano is actually one of the largest expanses in the world.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Sipi Falls</td></tr>
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On the taxi, I shared the front seat (or he sat straddling the gear shift), with a guy named Robert, who actually worked at our intended destination - the Crow's Nest. He does climbing and abseiling (rappelling) down the 100m Sipi Falls. He had been trained by some Italians, and I would trust him fully, but my fear of heights would surely kick in, and cause me some angst. Would be a stunning descent though.<br />
The view from the community run Crow's Nest was wonderful. You actually could see up to all three sets of cascades or falls that are called Sipi Falls. I think the upper 2 sets of falls were in the 60 - 70m range, and the very picturesque bottom falls is 95m. Also, the views down to the flat lands below seem endless. A pretty great location indeed, even with all the rain.<br />
For dinner, we had some visitors in the name of a handful of friendly dogs that seem to be either <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing on top of the Middle Falls</td></tr>
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owned by the Crow's Nest, or just like to hang out there. I miss having the company of friendly dogs!!<br />
We arranged with a guide, who was a veteran of 14 years, to take us on the obligatory walk to all three falls. Backson was a kind, and friendly guide, who walked us up through all the little paths around the area, past local houses and through local villages. A good blast from the upper falls provided me with a much needed shower, but the river quickly disappeared underground, only to appear further downstream before the second cascade. You could stand in the river at the top of the second falls, overlooking the drop below. You could also go behind this set of falls, and see a local cave slowly being dug for the salty soils, which locals feed to the cattle. <br />
Of course, the highlight was a close-up view of the big falls. A beautiful twin falls, over orange <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lower and Most Impressive Falls</td></tr>
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coloured cliff, with a cave created from erosion at the bottom. The local farms and shacks create a nice colour differential, compared to the cliff below. We stopped at the perfectly located Lacam Lodge for a pack lunch with a view over the falls. Apparently, the Lacam Lodge almost burned to the ground recently, when a fire swept up the trees from below. The neighbouring lodge was completely lost. <br />
We did not attempt to hike down to the base, as the paths had been exceptionally slippery all day, as the recent rains have made everything so muddy! We were lucky to get around where we did. <br />
We had planned to spend a second night at Crow's Nest, but Robert had informed us of a bus leaving in the afternoon, travelling all night all the way to Nairobi. What a score, since we had planned to get there as soon as possible. So, we quickly packed up and rushed down to Mbale, only to find out that there were no seats left on the bus!! Everyone had told us that we should have no problem getting seats, although, now we DID have a problem…. where would we get to tonight???? We started heading to the border as soon as possible, and figured we would just get across into Kenya, and probably stay there for the night. Our days are numbered now though, so we didn't want to waste a day. Stay tuned for the continuation of this journey. *Stub<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Backson and Michelle enjoying lunch at Sipi Falls</td></tr>
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<br /></div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0Sipi Falls, Mount Elgon National Park, Uganda1.3377778 34.37944441.2742803 34.3004804 1.4012753 34.458408399999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13042170.post-16793741415384005062012-05-12T01:12:00.000-07:002012-05-28T02:08:23.765-07:00Banging the Hub at Hairy Lemon, Nazigo, Uganda<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/68022967@N00/sets/72157629623299792/" target="_blank">To See Our Photos of Uganda, Click Here</a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banging the Hub to Call the Boat</td></tr>
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Leaving Kampala after seeing the crazy traffic, a few major sights, and having some deliciously cheap pizza, we almost missed our morning Posta Bus because the guy told us the wrong departure time. We arrived at 7:30AM for the 8AM departure, but the bus was leaving as we arrived - Phew!!! This bus dropped us off in Jinja, about 1 hour up the road towards Kenya, and famous for being the main source of the Nile River. <br />
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As so often happens with us, our plans changed during the bus ride. We decided to skip a night's stay in Jinja, and opted to attempt to get to the excellently named 'Hairy Lemon' Lodge on the Nile River. We had trouble getting in touch with anyone at Hairy Lemon, so were unsure if the place still existed, or was open at this slow time of the year. Finally, it was confirmed that thing's up there were still running, so we quickly made our way there, even through the rain on our boda boda (motorbike taxi). <br />
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Upon arrival, you have to bang on a car hub hanging in a tree with a metal peg, to get the attention of the boatman on the island. Then, out of the bushes comes the boat, across some minor rapids of the Nile River. Our river taxi had arrived and within minutes we were on the island in the middle of the <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching the boat taxi arrive from Hairy Lemon</td></tr>
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Nile, chilling out with our first family meal - a much needed lunch!!<br />
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We set up tent on the banks of the Nile, with views towards the sunset side of the river. It also provided us with some misty morning wake-up views over the river. This place looked pretty cool, with plenty of chill-out areas around - something we had rarely seen in Africa. Hammocks, big comfy pillows in roofed lounges overlooking the Nile. Very relaxing, and we immediately felt we would get stuck here. <br />
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Paul, the South African owner was pretty chilled out himself. I guess you get that way living on an island, isolated from many places. One thing I really enjoyed with him was playing Frisbee Golf, on his ghetto course he had organized <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view of the Nile from our Tent</td></tr>
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around the island. It was quite addictive, and I kept playing with friends Jeff and Nicole, even by myself, to try to beat my personal best. The course record used to be held by Paul at 21, but a guest beat it at 20, and that will probably stand for some time. My personal best was a respectable 25, so I was happy with that performance. It was great, because on hole number 3, you could take a quick swim break at his dammed swimming hole on the Nile. The water would start off very low in the morning, and by the end of the day, would have raised by about 0.7m. More water flowing out of the dams upstream, for more Ugandan electricity.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Tail Monkey at Hairy Lemon</td></tr>
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As with so many places in Africa, the camp was often invaded by monkeys. These ones though, didn't seem too comfortable around people, which is nice - meaning they don't get fed and they are not scrounging. The group of red tail monkeys are eternally stuck on the small group of islands, but they don't seem to mind as their natural food is plentiful there. It is fun to have them swinging around while chilling out anywhere on the property or beaches. Also, there were plenty of birds all around the river and we often woke up to the noisiness of the weaver birds, building more and more nests. <br />
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The food was quite good, and all meals were served family style. Anita, the manager, and her staff set out the food and it was buffet style for all the guests at once. It was a good way to meet others, <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owner Paul, and Manager Anita at Hairy Lemon Bar</td></tr>
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and we met a group of Dutch/Norwegian girls living in Jinja. This was a lucky meeting for us, as not only were they a good laugh, but we ended up staying in an empty room in their house in Jinja. <br />
We finally left after four days, but earlier in the day than the girls. We wanted to see a little of Jinja before we left. And that's pretty much what we saw, very little. We did walk past what is considered the main source of the Nile River, beginning it's over 6000km through Uganda, Sudan, Egypt and into the Mediterranean. It's pretty nondescript, but is apparently where the river first exited Lake Victoria, before the big dams were built. Now it just looks like a slow flowing river, or extension of an inlet. Still, we've now been to two of the claimed 'Sources' of the Nile, both of them not very impressive. The river was on the other side of a golf course, and there was a funny sight of about 8 or so massive marabou storks on the green looking <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9AzTOgLY1vaGzlNQiGu6203dGQo7koAWjHlys_o8Z1FKAk0HmCWrJw_FtbfMDVZb42gfrI4Ww5yZ60nxls-FBZptMxaSDfNKgo4vv8LslS4EtnXkV8ZGs1RdYF_UM269KXSdog/s1600/flavours.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT9AzTOgLY1vaGzlNQiGu6203dGQo7koAWjHlys_o8Z1FKAk0HmCWrJw_FtbfMDVZb42gfrI4Ww5yZ60nxls-FBZptMxaSDfNKgo4vv8LslS4EtnXkV8ZGs1RdYF_UM269KXSdog/s320/flavours.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beers with Josh and Glen in Jinja</td></tr>
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like they were just ready to putt. One even dug into the hole under the flag like he was looking for a ball, and tried to pull out the flag.<br />
<br />
After our brief tour, we arrived back at the restaurant Flavours, where we had been hanging out. Having trouble organizing to meet the girls, we were 'saved' by a couple of patrons, Josh from the US, and Glen from Ireland. They 'saved' us by buying us a few beers to have with them, while we passed the time until the girls met up with us for dinner. It was a good laugh hanging out with them, but I'm sure it ended up with a bad head the next day for one of them!! Thanks for 'Saving' Us!! *Stub</div>MushandStubhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14396677084765674304noreply@blogger.com0luzinga Rd, Lubanyi, Uganda0.62758144462987953 33.0468750.50055994462987952 32.8889465 0.75460294462987954 33.2048035